Hey guys, normally I'd put something like this on TMF but it's getting so hard to filter through the amount of bollocks info on there I thought I'd start here instead.

Ok, here's the deal, my little 998 A+ has developed an odd intermittent misfire. It's mainly occuring on weak-feathered throttle settings but isn't limited to that. It'll generally go hard, but once in every say 20 accellerations it'll start burp and fart under full load.

Also it'll occasionally misfire after sitting at a set of lights for while.

So far to try and beat the problem into submission I've:

1. pulled the dizzy cap off and checked for tracking/cracking corroded terminals. all good.
2. cleaned the points with a points file.
3. thrown new plugs at it
4. topped up the dashpot oil and checked the float chamber for debris.

Where to next? Any ideas guys? Girls?

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you can't be unhappy in a poncho, or a mini

Hey Carare,

I had the same problem with my A+ and it got the point where she would splutter and cough and die completely and won't start for me. Leave it half and hour and she'd start first time... fustrating! I thought i had cooked the engine the first time it happened.

When she started again after 30 minutes i thought it was water in the dissy but it turns out she has an electronic dissy that was fitted in Japan. The orginal dissy is still there, but i have a silver box mounted up near the firewall that controls the whole thing. You might have the same?

In the end it turned out i had a loose connection to the coil. so some new wire terminations and she right and rain. We did the whole lot (everything that went near the dissy) Just do them one by one so you know which wire goes where

:oops:

Oh and before i worked out what it was i also replaced the spark plugs, Air filter, fuel filter and started looking for a replacement dissy (not cheap), so try the wiring connections.

Cheers Neata

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Don't blame me i just work here!

Ahh, I think i'll have a rummage around have a look-see!

Cheers!

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you can't be unhappy in a poncho, or a mini

I second the loose conections at the coil scenario. If the coil is mounted on the motor, vibrations can either fray the wire or make spade lugs get loose.
If you have this problem and a tacho, the needle will often jump about.

I have binned all my spade lugs, I now use ring terminals, crimped then soldered.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Another thing to consider is the Condensor ...

I had issues with one in my Race mini - caused no end of issues with odd ignition behaviour.

Well guys, in the end I bit the bullet, turfed the points and condenser in favor of a britparts ignition module from minisport.

After about 20 minutes of phaffing it was in, retimed and the car is now back to (almost) perfect.

Next job is tackling my very dim headlights!

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you can't be unhappy in a poncho, or a mini

The headlights will be an earthing problem. Undo the earth straps on both the gearbox to the body and emery paper both ends clean and the same where they bolt up Ie gearbox and body panel. Then do the same on the earth strap from the battery to the body in the boot.

Make sure the connectors on the battery are also clean and well fitting.

If the lights are still dim trace through all the places where the lights are earthed and clean them as well.

If they are still dim after all that then its a frayed connector on the positive side somewhere and a good auto electrician will find it a lot quicker than either you and I will. The auto lecky will probably suggest that you have a set of relays fitted so that the electrical power goes straight to the lights and not through the light switching. The light switching mere activates the relays.

Mike

relays

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

+ H4 globes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Fit Relays before overloading the system more by fitting H4 globes. Otherwise you will end up with no better lights. H4s on their own are a waste of time. Mini wiring and switches were not designed to handle such loads.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

55/45W H4s (I have Wipac Quadoptics) are fine with stock wiring, + relays. Not so the 100W monsters... they need new cabling.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.