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Twin SU's accelerator cable
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=77929		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Kennomini [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Twin SU's accelerator cable
My accelerator cable jams up and becomes very hard to push the pedal down and some times it doesn't release properly so when changing gears it sounds like I haven't taken my foot off the accelerator.
Now this only happens when the bonnet is shut, if it's open the pedal moves freely like it should. So the obvious problem is the cable is hitting the bonnet and bending to tight which jams the cable.
This is the best pic I have sofar;
Image
The cable enters into the carby linkage almost vertical.
Any easy way to solve this?
Author:  kiwiinwgtn [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
you could try shortening the cable.

also use a gear cable from a push bike any good bike shop can make you one up at any length also the good thing they are Teflon lined and way cheaper than a car one.
Author:  willy [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
New cable time.


Sounds like your existing one has had it - the lining wears down and the inner cable will grip up and carry on... sounds like the bonnet is pushing the cable down and forcing it to stick.
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't like the way your cable is being bent over the breather hose that shouldn't be there.
Author:  mini_mad_matt [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yea i would run that cable under the hose, also check the layout of the bracket the outer sleeve rests against. I'm pretty sure cables normally run close over the rocker cover, not like the angle of yours in your pic.

Is that hose going from breather to breather btw?
Author:  FNQ [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 8:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
On my twin SUs- cable etc similar presentation - like a slow carb piston or stuck cable. Ivan- at Castle Hill did all the checks of the cable including the housing into the pedal, - graphite powder inside etc - but spend some time on the linkages filing back some parts that didn't always clear on the way back

The whole pedal really freed up.

Darryl
Author:  Kennomini [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 8:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
The hose is actually lower than it appears and it is going to a T joiner that runs to the flywheel breather and back to the PCV valve which runs to the center of the inlet manifold. I'll try to get some better pics tomorrow arvo.
Author:  XC9000 [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm with willy

Replacement is so cheap why not start there? And also run it under the breather hose keeping as smooth an operation as possible.
Author:  goodie [ Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
kiwiinwgtn wrote:
also use a gear cable from a push bike any good bike shop can make you one up at any length also the good thing they are Teflon lined and way cheaper than a car one.


This is exactly what i have just recently bought from our local pushbike shop , only cost $7 , haven't fitted it yet , so i can't comment on whether it's any good or not .
Author:  Kennomini [ Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Image
Image
Image
The cable seems to flex pretty easy I can bend it to about 70mm 180* I might look at trying another cable to see if that will simply fix it.
Author:  ryan [ Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
It looks like the bracket needs to be bent back a little to change the angle.
Author:  kiwiinwgtn [ Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Also how many springs do you have on the carbs, there should be three 2 to the base plate and one to the airbox
Author:  Kennomini [ Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Their is no air box should their only be two springs then?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Most Cooper setups I've seen here had the middle spring to the heatshield bar, in between the other 2...
Author:  slacko [ Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Check and make sure the end of the cable is not catching on the extractors

I had this problem when I fitted the new extractors
could not work out why the throtle was jamming open
Bent the end of the cable up after the locking nut and all fixed

Mark
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