I know it's a long post but please try to stick with it!!

First off these are 8.4" disc brake Rover hubs.

Over the last 12 months or so I have had ongoing issues with vibration through the steering column and having changed the bearings and CVs several times, had tracking, alignment and geometry setup many times, replaced the tyres (incase of flat spots) and had rims straightened I am still no further forward!

Initially the problem started gradually and would only occur at speeds over say 100KPH but now the steering vibrates from 70KPH and also feels to "bounce" when travelling very slow, maybe 15KPH, as if using oval rims!!

I am now very desperate:confused

In a final attempt, I have concluded that the only thing left to replace are the hubs themselves. So I have built up some new seconhand hubs with brand new bearings, balljoints etc. and was going to swap them over at the weekend. However, when I took the old hubs off there were some significant marks on the CV joint shaft and the outer bearing.


drivers side on left and passengers side on right





driver side outer half of bearing



passenger side outer half of bearing

other pics available here http://s1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii483/4agecooper/


My problem is, what is causing the markings and why. The marking on both the CV joint and bearing are not square which makes me think that somehow the bearing is not sitting square in the outer race, but virtually the same on both sides??

When assembling these bearings previously I made certain that the bearing race was seated completely,placed the matching spacer in between the well greased bearings and added new CV joints. When assembling the hubs I torqued up using the "special washer" first, removed nut and torqued up with split washer. Then went further to split pin hole. I think doing everything I was supposed to, to the T. But alas still the same problem, even immediately after rebuild.

Is it possible that my hubs are damaged? And by the same amount on both sides?

I can only assume that the bearings are not seated properly, which is A causing them to bind on the CV shaft and B allowing the bearings to move around in the race causing the oscillation in the CV shaft and thus vibration in the steering wheel. But why?

There does not seem to be any movement in the hub/CV joint when freshly assembled.

Has any body ever seen this before or does anybody know where I could be going wrong?

Cheers for any help

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1 1969 Austin Mini Cooper
+
1 20v 4age motor
=
1 Huuuuuuuuge Grin!!!

Looks awfully like the CV Nut was not tight enough. Don't use the old figure of 150 ft/lbs, they look like Metelli CV and must be torqued to 197 ft/lbs, then to the next hole (for the split pin). Check the drive flange where it contacts the wheel bearing too. And what wheel bearings are they? There IS only one wheel bearing.

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,,,and its name starts with a T.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Looks like the driveshaft has been spinning inside the bearing?
Maybe wrong bearings?
How easy does the hub spin when it was all torqued up?
When I assembled my new bearings and CVs I think I needed to add a very thin shim between the bearing halves as they were too tight when torqued up

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Yours would probably be the later ones with 1/2 a spacer incorporated in the inner bearing ring. I have some rears like this (Timkens in a Unipart box).
I don't like these, they are hardened, and if they need anything taken off (sh!t happens) I can't turn them on the lathe like the others.
Original front Timken kit with the separate unhardened spacer included is the best, IMO.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The more I think about it then the more I have to agree that they were not quite tight enough.

Either by not enough torque or the bearings are moving between removing the large 'special' washer and refitting the split washer and torquing it back up.

You are right GT, they are metelli CV joints, any problems with these?

As for the bearings, I think the last ones I bought were not of the Timken variety and may also be contributing to the problem.

My torque wrench is only 150lbft but I felt I had gone a long way past this by using a 4 foot long extension to increase the torque. Maybe I will have to either invest in or borrow a bigger torque wrench to be certain next time.

_________________
1 1969 Austin Mini Cooper
+
1 20v 4age motor
=
1 Huuuuuuuuge Grin!!!

I've found them to be the best I've ever fitted and used, although they were perfect excuse to get a 3/4 drive torque wrench

I haven't come across the front wheel bearings with the half spacer built in to each half, only on the rears. Are there front ones like these?

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OK that's good to hear about the Metelli CVs.

Looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet and get new CVs, I assume that these are now shot?
Get some Timken bearings
And also a 3/4 drive torque wrench
Making sure to torque to 197 lbft and making sure that nothing moves after pre-loading
the bearings.

Thanks for all the input

_________________
1 1969 Austin Mini Cooper
+
1 20v 4age motor
=
1 Huuuuuuuuge Grin!!!

has the bearing gone thru the hardening on the CV

if you cannot feel the marks with you finger nail you may be in lucky and the Cv is ok.

A light polish with some fine emery paper may also take of any bits left from the bearing. go lightly with the emery

Yes, I can feel the mark, certainly on the passenger side CV.

I think I will get new ones just to remove any uncertainty.

_________________
1 1969 Austin Mini Cooper
+
1 20v 4age motor
=
1 Huuuuuuuuge Grin!!!