Please give me your opinions on the following.
Before adjustment.
Rear;
Camber,
Left -0.78
Right -0.84
Toe;
Left -0.1mm
Right + 0.3mm

Front;
Castor,
Left +3.57
Right +3.63
Camber,
Left -1.63
Right -1.73
Toe;
Left -8.3mm
Right +7.7mm

After adjustment (IE $150)
Rear;
Camber,
Left -0.84
Right -0.78
Toe;
Left -0.6mm
Right + 0.7mm

Front;
Castor,
Left +0.00
Right +0.00
Camber,
Left -1.65
Right -1.61
Toe;
Left -0.8mm
Right -2.1mm

I have fully adjustable suspension and the car is used for road and perhaps in the future a bit of track fun.

What say you?





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Apart from the front toe setting, I preferred the look of your "before" settings.

In the after settings :

Front;
Castor,
Left +0.00
Right +0.00

*NO* castor at all?


Left -0.8mm
Right -2.1mm

blech, couldn't they at least get it even??

cheers,

Jacob

_________________
'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

I think I'd ask for my money back.....

Cheers, Ian

With that toe out the steering wheel should be slighly off to the left.

_________________
Dalmeny

No Castor? Thats a joke

It would feel very vague to drive. No castor and it will wander around a lot. Something I have learnt recently, if you want the wheels to be where they should be do it yourself.
G.

_________________
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

What was it 'set' to?
A lot of alignment places have a computer program that lists all the factory reference numbers for the car and normally a car would be set as close as possible to that.
Those numbers are miles off factory settings.

Take it back mate.. they didn't earn their money.

I reckon I could get it closer than that with just a tape measure and a spirit level.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Take it back!

From memory castor should be 2-3 degrees to give you some steering feel and centering.

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Take it back!

From memory castor should be 2-3 degrees to give you some steering feel and centering.

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

shouldn't the rear wheels both have toe in ?
with one toed out and one toed in wont the car be going sideways ?

Yes it will. It is then called a crabby Mini.

Mine used to crab heaps but it's perfect now (after applying some basic trigonometry, a milling machine and a MIG welder). I did Lillee's car too, after a well known suspension specialist threw his hands up in the air. No adjustable brackets needed...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can anyone post the ideal alignment settings please?

Front and rear?

cheers,

CJ

Ty, you have been ripped

take it back & ask them to get it right

front -->
toe= 1/16th" OUT--- total... that is 1/32nd" per wheel
caster= 3 to 4 deg is fine
camber= depends on what tyres you have & what type driving you intend but .5 deg to 1 deg is good

rear-->
toe= 1/16th" IN-- total,,, that is 1/32nd" per wheel
camber= .5 to 1deg is fine

if you want more race type settings (again depending on what tyre choice) then yokos like 1 to 2 deg camber
Hoosier-daddys like to be straight up & down,,, ie: no camber

that`s just all a starting point for anyone, because like i said, it depends on a pile of things, mostly tyre choice & suspension /body stiffness & what type of driving you`re intending on using the car for

sometimes a compromise may be needed

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

sweet, thanks I will file that away for later