I have a wet subframe similar to this. (not my pic)

It's being sent to the sandblaster soon.

My question: how do I remove the thread that is shown (the thread that attaches to the boot near the bumper via the swivel bracket), or does it stay and get taped up?
The rest is stripped ready to go.
Also it has the number 21A1588 and lots of blue stars stamped on it - i presume this is just the standard part number and quality control stamps?

Also, the age old question - powder coat/POR15/subframe black?

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Justin

You'll need an angle grinder to get the stub shaft out, so just tape it up.
Everyone does their own thing with subframe finishing.
I 2-pac paint them because its pretty tough and chips off in small bits if it does at all.
Powdercoating looks tidier but I think its more easily damaged and breaks down over time (look at any 5 year old dirt bike).

Thanks.

No on really sees them that much anyway (certainly not the rear) so I was thinking against powder coating. More so a protective coating than anything else.

Are there kits to buy to rebuild or is it individual parts?

Any ideas what parts I need for front & rear rebuilds?

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Justin

The sand blaster will usually be able to paint the sub frames. I had mine painted with Epoxy, which seems pretty hard

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Epoxy paint is more durable under there than powdercoat is. Throw rocks up at powdercoat and the `powderpaint' flicks off easy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I used por 15 , and then went over that with por chassis black
after it has hardend you can hit it with a steel hammer and not chip it

Mark

Chuck a piece of hose over the thread before it is sand blasted. Clean it up with a wire wheel if you need to however.

Also, check the condition of the threads on the captive nuts up the front in case you need to Helicoil them with new threads. You can do this before or after blasting however.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Powder coat is just acrylic/polyester that gets baked on. The problem is its rigidity. For under seal you will want something that's flexible. I think I will be giving a bed liner a go when its time. people seem to have mixed results with por 15, some swear by it and others cant get it to flow out of the gun (you can brush it on though)

Even epoxy stays mildly flexible, actually makes me want to give urethane with a low shore hardness a go.

If you want to do a full rebuild the parts should be something like:
http://www.minisport.com.au/viewcart.htm
This is just a quick tally up, some things are doubled up to show you some options. This is just the subframes their is also hubs, bearings, top and bottom ball joints CV's boots inner and outer, shocks, brakes & pads/shoes & lines, the rubbers that go in the mounting brackets on the rear frame etc etc

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Umm Ken, the link comes up empty?

shopping carts are IP sensitive. IE: only the computer that filled the cart should be able to view the items in the cart. the IP address acts as a 'name' or ID number until an account is made. you'll have to link each item separately.

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So what's the last thing you remember...

I'm pretty sure you were..

WRONG ANSWER!!!

Hmmm it's even empty when I look at it but anyway the basic parts are;
tie rod rubbers std or up-graded, lower control arm bushes (their is a few types available depending on what arm you have and specs you want), front suspension top and bottom bump stops, top front control arm and rear swing arm re-pin kits and from memory I think that's it for the basic sub frame rebuild plus the other items I mentioned earlier.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

So one of the front subframe tower studs snapped. (above the hydro bag).
I'm going to drill it out and cut a new thread - does anyone know the thread size??

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Justin

Thread in my automatic subby (is hydro, with bolts not studs) is 5/16 UNF.
I know because I had to clean it out with a tap (welded onto a longgggggg tee handle).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc.

On closer inspection it was a bolt! (It's been a while - I though they were lost but I just found them!)

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Justin