Hi all,

I have just pulled my radiator out in an attempt to solve the overheating problems I've been suffering for the last year or so. I'm going to replace it with an alloy one from ebay.

I have a couple of noobish questions that I'm hoping someone can answer: Firstly, is there anything else I should look at whilst the radiator's out (I'm going to replace the water pump, but is there anything else)?

Secondly, as it's aluminium, do I have to change anything with regards to the coolant I use, or should the inhibitor in it be enough?

Thanks,

Ben.

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

Fanbelt

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

I would also do the timing chain if you know it is coming up to needing replacement.

Depending on how high spec your engine is you might not want to do it as you'll only be able to 'align the dots' in the car.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

also check front dampener for wear, and that side engine mount, much easier to get to with the rad out

cheers,

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

If the timing cover oil seal is leaking, now's a great time to change it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the advice!

There is a leak around there somewhere so maybe the timing cover gasket is one of them. Changing this will also allow me to see how stretched the timing chain is and whether it's already a double or not. If I do need to change it, how big a job is it? I'm a bit of a novice

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

I'd add thermostat to list , in fact that would have been my guess for overheating problems.

I would have checked overheating in this order radiator circulation , fan belt slipping , radiator hoses , thermostat not opening , water pump ,then finally head gasket.

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Project Pickles is ALIVE!!!!! Click Here!
Success is so much sweeter after the struggle

A poorly tuned engine is quite often the cause of overheating as well as the usual blocked radiator etc.

Cheers for the tips. I changed the thermostat and flushed it a couple of times after advice from a thread earlier this year. Thinking I had fixed the issue, I went for a 10 minute test drive in the evening. The light on my dash wasn't working, so I checked the temp gauge with a torch every few minutes. The temperature went up so quickly by the time I realised and got my car in a position to pull over safely on the freeway, I'd already blown the head gasket

That was about six months ago now and I'm getting a tax return soon, so hopefully I'll be able to afford a couple of parts, get it running and take it to minicraft to get it tuned up properly. Just getting frustrated due to my lack of knowledge and experience, but I just keep reminding myself that I bought this car to learn on

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

Gasket doesn't often leak it's usually the oil seal in the cover.
Unless it's an early 1275 or been modified it's probably got a single row chain.
Changing a single row chain is easy, you put it on TDC with the 2 dots on the sprockets aligned.
Undo the cam nut then pull both sprockets and the chain off together.
Refitting it, you put both sprockets in the new chain, use a ruler across the sprocket centres to ensure the 2 dots are lined up accurately, then slide it all back on. Torque the nut up and fold the lock washer up.
If it's an early motor with 2 neoprene rubber rings on the cam sprocket, replace these too (they are the `chain tensioner').

Fitting a duplex chain [edit] and sprockets-
Generally as above but first you need to countersink the 2 bottom holes in the front plate, then fit short 1/4" UNF csk screws.
Also, sometimes the timing cover needs mods inside for clearance, but early covers fit OK std.
The oil slinger needs to be the common `almost flat' one, not the early 850 etc type with the deeper dish.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just fit a duplex kit, it is marginally more expensive but far more durable.

Won't hurt to fit new hoses either. check the bypass hose between the head and the block as well, they are often overlooked (unless it was replaced when you did your head gasket)

Good luck!!!

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78 Leyland Mini - Prince

engine mount

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

With the little by pass hose, get a bit of 1/2" ortac hose, cut about 1/4" too long and a couple of MH6 clamps, fit as you put pump on. This cant be done with pump/head in situ, but once fitted will never need replacing.

Bypass hose - is that the one from the water pump to the head?

I've replaced the radiator hoses due to a small leak in one of them while I replaced the thermostat. If there's slack in the timing chain and it's still a single chain, I will fit a duplex for sure

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

You might as well pull out the water pump and check it for impeller corrosion. If its at all corroded replace it with a new on. The new ones are mch better and really are cheap as chips.

Mike