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 Post subject: broke a bolt
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:07 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:20 pm
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Location: Maryknoll
Started assembling my engine today..
What a PIA, 1st job install oil pump. hmmmm new oil pump looks nice, tighten up bolts and dont even get them tight "SNAPPO"
Bugger me.
Drill bolt, easy out, phew thank F^&K for that.
Get new bolt, tighten it up and get to the same spot "SNAPPO"
WTF am i doing wrong.. Drill bolt put in easy out "SNAPPO"
Thats it im done for the day..
Double check oil pump to original pump and hmmm about 5mm difference in over all thickness, from shaft end to base is the same but overall is just enough so the bolt won't seat and tighten it up...
Next stop the machine shop again so I can get the damn bolt removed and start assembling it all over again..

Any other gremlins I should be looking out for with the rest of the build

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1973 Solid side Leyland Mini Panelvan 1100 in Hairy Lime(Elma)
1976 Clubby project in progress
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe in need of a full resto
1971 Mini K Garden Art


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:17 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
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Location: SE Melbourne
You aren't using old or re-plated or cheap bolts are you?
Have you run a tap through the holes first to make sure threads are clean and straight?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:26 pm 
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848cc
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First one was the old bolt but the second was a newbie.. Its the fact that there is a 5mm difference in thickness from the after market oil pump to the factory oil pump and the bolt bottomed out

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If its got tits or wheels its gonna cost you

1973 Solid side Leyland Mini Panelvan 1100 in Hairy Lime(Elma)
1976 Clubby project in progress
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe in need of a full resto
1971 Mini K Garden Art


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Yes with modern aftermarket oil pumps you need to cut ~5mm off the bolts before fitting.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:51 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Yes with modern aftermarket oil pumps you need to cut ~5mm off the bolts before fitting.


where were you about 5 hours ago???
You would think that there would some sort of information regarding that so idiots like me dont destroy a motor because of a stupid bolt

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If its got tits or wheels its gonna cost you

1973 Solid side Leyland Mini Panelvan 1100 in Hairy Lime(Elma)
1976 Clubby project in progress
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe in need of a full resto
1971 Mini K Garden Art


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:23 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Greensborough, Victoria
You could also use a split washer to take up the slack . . .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:30 pm 
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BALLISTIC wrote:
You could also use a split washer to take up the slack . . .


yes you could but then you can't use the locktabs and the last thing i want is for any bolts to vibrate loose when cough cough the wife is reving this little beast to an inch of its life

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If its got tits or wheels its gonna cost you

1973 Solid side Leyland Mini Panelvan 1100 in Hairy Lime(Elma)
1976 Clubby project in progress
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe in need of a full resto
1971 Mini K Garden Art


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:42 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I use Loctite 262, no locktabs. One less part to find/buy as they are usually shagged.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:44 pm 
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848cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
I use Loctite 262, no locktabs. One less part to find/buy as they are usually shagged.


Yeah i've got loctite but I must be lucky my locktabs are perfect and i have a couple the same way to choose from...I like the physical barrier over the chemical barrier to stop my engine disintegrating

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If its got tits or wheels its gonna cost you

1973 Solid side Leyland Mini Panelvan 1100 in Hairy Lime(Elma)
1976 Clubby project in progress
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe in need of a full resto
1971 Mini K Garden Art


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 12:59 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:49 pm
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I would pay attention to the workshop manual torque limits. Regardless if the bolt is bottomed out or shankbound that should save shearing off of bolts in future fastener installations. A torque wrench is a great investment. Obeying torque limits and subsequently finding a fastener that wont seat all the way home indicates you have some other problem that needs addressing. I feel for you, those ezy outs can be not so ezy to get out once they have sheared off!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 4:21 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
Nicho wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
I use Loctite 262, no locktabs. One less part to find/buy as they are usually shagged.


Yeah i've got loctite but I must be lucky my locktabs are perfect and i have a couple the same way to choose from...I like the physical barrier over the chemical barrier to stop my engine disintegrating


To wise DrMini you listen. Lock tabs aren't as good as one would make them out to be. Some of the cheap Chinese locktabs are a liability rather than an asset. I have hardly any lock tabs at all in my engine and I wouldn't exactly describe it as "disintegrating", far from it.

Loctite 262 is your best friend, far better than easily sheering sheet metal locktabs under heavy loads.

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