Ok, so it's come to my attention that I didn't get my ball joints all shimmed up properly when I first put them together. Can someone give me a simple, straightforward explanation of how to adjust them correctly without feeler gauges etc (which is how the workshop manual says to do it). I've got new lock tabs and boots to go on. I've got a buttload of shims to play with, but I'm just not sure how to work out the right feel.

A couple of questions that have come up in my reading. Which bits need greasing? Do I add grease before or after I sort out the shims through trial and error?

I know about lapping them in with valve grinding paste. I know I need to sort out the right number of shims through trial and error. And I know that I shim the bottom one out without the spring in place to start with. But the finer details have me confused.

Thanks team.

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Cheers, Matt

Don't be fooled, Gruhms is not my real name.

I am sure I will be corrected by the real people that know how to do it properly but I do mine quite simply... no lapping, no feeler gauges...

After popping the ball joint, wiggle the pin to check if there is play. Basically it should only just be moveable with your fingers (tight but not seized). If it's wiggling easily in the socket or even any play then it's worn and needs shims taken out. Bottom one should move more easily as it is spring loaded but not moving freely.

I just undo the ball joint, take it apart, take note of the shims already in there, clean them up with WD40 to get all the grease and crud off them, esp the little cup and spring thing inside, on the bottom ones.

Check the ball end of the pin for flat spots etc. Must be nice and round. Check the cup too on the bottom joints.

Fully reassemble dry adding or removing shims to tighten or loosen it up, including the lock tab, torque it down and check the wiggle again, add/remove shims until you can only just move them with your fingers, (nice and tight but not seized).

Check torque one last time, hit up the lock tabs (change to new lock tabs and new boots if I were you) and then grease the nipple.

That's pretty much it...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Thanks Lillee.

That's pretty much what I thought. I just wanted confirmation of how they should feel before I do the final tighten.

Do I pack the whole lot with grease before I tighten it all up?

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Cheers, Matt

Don't be fooled, Gruhms is not my real name.

No need, that's what the grease nipple is for. Just assemble it all dry, check the tightness of the pin, knock up the tabs and squirt grease into it and it will be well lubricated.

Important thing is to torque the ball joint down at normal torque before checking pin tightness. If you don't it will be wrong. If you get into grief, give me a call

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I think its still worth lapping them a little, even if you don't go to any great pains to do so. They bind up so easily without the ball joints being lapped in, so may give false reading as you shim them up.

I put the ball joint in a cordless drill and spin it up for a a few seconds with a little paste, then wash it out. Laps them in in a tick.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Last time i looked, there was a really good instruction video on this on YouTube. Just search for ball joint and mini.

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!

Ok, thanks guys. I'll give that a go.

I don't have a grease gun, so I'll just give everything a bit of a coating before I do the final tighten.

Mick, that's how I was lapping mine too.

I did a quick search on YouTube, but couldn't find the video. Doesn't mean it wasn't there though...

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Cheers, Matt

Don't be fooled, Gruhms is not my real name.

I think this is what I watched last time...(can't confirm as I don't have access to youtube right now)
Explains it very nicely.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyDE4oqbZnc

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

How do you own a mini and not own a grease gun!?!?

Step 1) buy a grease gun immediately

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Grease-Gun-2 ... 0835990013

Best $35 you'll ever spend! (Pistol grip type is easier to use than the handle type)

I bet your rear trailing arms are screaming out for 20 pumps of grease! (literally squeak squeak! )

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

It should be part of the welcome pack, along with a set of points, a 1/2" ring spanner and a quart of oil.

Good bit of advice that Mick, I'll do that next time I get to them

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Haha and stitches to the back of the head from the bonnet hook of death!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Bunnings have kingchrome ones for $30 in the tool section....

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

Cool, will look into that! I need a new one

EDIT: The handle grip one is $30, the pistol grip one is $40. But Lifetime garantee

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_pro ... e=products

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

And this is what happens if you get balljoints wrong...

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.