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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:21 pm 
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This has probably been covered in another thread, but I couldn't find anything with a quick skim.
I'm familiar with doing valve clearances using the rule of 9 method, but another method that exists is to adjust cylinder 1 with cylinder 4 valves "on the rock", and same for cylinder 2 with 3 "on the rock" etc. etc.

Does this work satisfactorily on the a-series?

(Half as much work in turning over the engine!)

Finally, and for trivia only, do the gun mini mechanics do clearances with engine running? My uncle used to do his truck this way as I recall.

Matt

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:54 pm 
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The "on the rock" method as you call it works as good as any method on the A series engine.

Don;t bother trying to set the clearances with the motor running, For one thing it will make one hell of a mess!!

Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:26 pm 
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MattE wrote:

Finally, and for trivia only, do the gun mini mechanics do clearances with engine running? My uncle used to do his truck this way as I recall.

Matt


In the BMC production "Horses to Horsepower" there is footage of a Technician adjusting tappets on a running motor on a test Dyno at the Sydney BMC plant.

Not a Mini engine but A series I think.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:42 am 
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I am reminded of the belt change conducted on a running VW!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:27 pm 
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sitnlo62 wrote:
The "on the rock" method as you call it works as good as any method on the A series engine.

Don;t bother trying to set the clearances with the motor running, For one thing it will make one hell of a mess!!

Dave


Sitnlo62 is on the money on this one Matt. Years ago i had used the 'wet' method without a great deal of success. I've a close mate who served his time on BMC cars and worked on them 'til retirement who suggests dont even bother with the engine running. And he was talking up the 'on the rock' method but without using that term. The alternative to cranking is to push the car in third or fourth gear with the plugs out and its no bother. That be my preference. Hope it helps...

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:38 pm 
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Thanks. I adjusted them today - just set it in third and pulled the car. Didn't even take plugs out, but shoulda! With only four positions to set, its only a 10 minute job. Trouble is, its still rattling. Any ideas? It's a rattle, not a knock, and doesn't sound like timing chain. Has a new rocker shaft and the A+ rockers (sintered type). What methods exist to diagnose it? Or would an expert ear pick it straight away?
Thanks!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:52 pm 
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If it sounds like it's 'rattling' it could be the idler gear or stretched timing chain!

Cheers Shane

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:58 pm 
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Thanks Shane. Could be either, but the chain is very new and it sounds very much like top end. I'm also thinking push rod or lifter, but I'm not sure what I'd be looking for. Mind you, solid block, so lifters is a big job!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:34 pm 
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My 1360 engine developed a hell of a rattle from the top end.

With the tappet cover on run the engine then with a longish screw driver use it as a sethascope you will soon hear what end the rattle is from.

Take tappet cover off and with engine stopped check for slop in the rocker gear around where you think the noise is coming from.

My guess is either a worn rocker bush or valve guide.

Mine was a worn guide, the guide grabed the valve at some stage .

It was very hard to detect with the valve springs connected.

Kiwiinwgtn


Last edited by kiwiinwgtn on Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:53 pm 
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Thanks Kiwi. I'll try the screwdriver, and whip the cover off again and check for slop in the rocker arms. Be great to find something, even if it means work. And it probably does!

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