hey, what is best to replace when rebuilding front and rear subframes ?

im already replacing bump stops, low arms, tie rod bushes, rear hanger rubbers, all new nuts and bolts..

is it best to change the top arm pin and bearings and the rear trailing arm pins and bearings ?

what else should i change ?

Nick

If the top arm pins are unworn I would keep them. They are harder than the ones they sell now which are made not in UK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Condition assess the front and rear arm pins before changing them out. The fronts have a good chance of being alright, and are pretty easy to change out anyway.The rears are often pretty poor as they are a little more involved to repair.

Check out the captive nuts on the outer front of the rear subframe, they're a good catch-all for mud and water so are often soft as cheese. Well worth helicoiling or replacing them now.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

hmm ill have to have a dig.. i think i may have already thrown the rears.. the fronts i think i still have though.. should have made this post sooner.. :/

anything else ?

Your best to add some extra welds around the suspension towers and where the radius rod attaches. Also check the radius rod for straightness.

New doughnuts too if its a dry setup, Or get a good set of second hand rear ones, The front ones are always shagged but rear ones are normally pretty good.

Possibly knuckle joints, They don't wear too bad but they are a pain to change on the car.

I second helicoiling the captive nuts and
I too was disappointed in the replacement trailing arm pins aftermarket quality.
Putting the front ones in 180 degrees around should be enough. The rear ones are likely gone. Theres a good how to on isnpecting and replacing the rear pins in the how to section.

front and rear has brand new donuts, hi-lo's, konis, and knuckle joints, ao no worries there

its possible ive tossed the old rods now i think about it.. but ill check tomorrow,

as for inspecting them.. they are already in as many peices as possible.. that might be a bit hard,

Inspecting is easy, bottom 2 are serviceable, top 2 aren't, As you can see it only really wears on one end. The inboard end from memory.

Try filing a spot on the corners of the straight bit. If soft enough to file, take em back and find some harder ones.
If not hardened (to RC60 or better) the needle bearings chop them up quick smart.
Big wheel Mokes have a needle bearing on BOTH ends, so watch this when buying kits. Mini kits have 1 needle bearing + 1 bronze bush.


As for the needle bearings on the front upper arms, all the Mini shops are selling cheaper caged ones, not full complement uncaged ones (as original).
If you want originals, buy from a bearing shop- the Koyo Torrington part number is B-1212:L125
[edit] Static load capacity of an uncaged bearing is near 2x that of a caged one (has 2x as many rollers & points of contact).
Caged bearings are better for high speed, but these ones hardly move...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok so ive definitely thrown the rear trailing arm pins

but i do still have the pins from the upper arms

ill look at sourcing some new pins for the rear trailing arms

Edit: i sourced some of the Koyo uncaged bearing your suggested and bought them today,

do you know the model number for the bearings for the rear trailing arms ?

On the note of hanger rubbers does it pay to buy the nolathane ones ? Or are the standard rubber ones best ?

i put springs in my yellow swift mini ill never go back to cones.

very comfy.

I mean for the subframe hangers, I have already purchased red dot cones