Has anyone here fitted the above mentioned eletronic ignition?

I fitted one a little while ago and it was very simple and all was happy days.
Recently, the car started to miss and fart like a pile of shite. I put it down to jetting as I was messing with the carby, but a heap of jetting mods have not helped the situation.

Took it to someone to tune it for me as I didn't have the equipment to get to the bottom of it; he has come back tracing it down to my ignition system.
He says there is a weak orange spark which could explain my symptons. Possibly the voltage resistor/regulator is stuffing around my spark or even the 'air gap' he has said.

I simply installed the ignition as per the instructions......

Has anyone got any light to shed on this? Something I might have missed? Something I've done caused the old lucas smoke show?

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

If you've let the smoke out you could always replace it with this:

http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

But seriously.....

What coil are you running?
Does it run ok when cold & then start to miss when it's warmed up?

I had a coil once that ran fine till it the car warmed up, then it started to miss & fart & carry on. I chased my arse with new spark plugs, leads, points, condensor and even all the wiring in the ignition circuit......turned out to be the coil. It even measured up electrically fine....when it was cold!

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Woohoo........

No longer an L plater........now 848!

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

When fitting Electronic Ignition to a car regardless the brand name it is always best to make sure you use the correct impedance coil that the manufacturer specifies. Too low a resistance on the primary winding will overload the Ignition Module circuitry. Sometimes this does not happen straight away and when the electronics start frying up they either stop completely or it will start to misfire. Chances are that if it is misfiring you will need to replace the Electronic Ignition and also the coil to be safe. Never give a coil a second chance, Bin it. Some times Faulty coils work "OK" on points but as electronics are more delicate the Coil problems show up more and causes fatal damage to the Ignition Module. Also very important to make sure the Coil is actually connected the right way meaning the Ignition positive feed from the Switch to the Terminal marked +.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Greatly appreciate these quick responses!
The tuner is trying to get to get any info/tips he can.

It's a Bosch gt40, so I presume that should be fine?
The powerspark was pretty cheap off eBay, have a made a rookie error? Seen plenty of people using the same one, same as Simonbbc sells.

My money is on the voltage regulator as Simonbbc website says if that's stuffed I can put to much voltage into the ignition. Also would explain my headlight/volt drop issue.

Now, where and what is my regulator!

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

I fitted a new alternator, do they have new regulators in them?

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

Either way I think my ignition needs to go in the bin.......
Whats the next step up in quality from Powerspark? (And a QUICK fix, ie. don't have time to go hunting wreckers for a pulsar dissy)

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

Pertronix ignitor.

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /lucas.htm

You can buy em here but will cost you more $$.

But try another coil first, coils often go funny before they die completely.
Be aware there were some dud rotors sold recently too, from the land of fried rice.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers, Kev.
Will try sort out another coil and go from there...
It's only 6 months old!
Thinking could be voltage reg, but surely that would be new and internal on the new alternator...

Damn electrical problems!!!!

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

I'm guessing the price = quality on those.
The powerspark was about $45 delivered ....makes you wonder

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

Check for frayed wires on the coil or loose spade connectors.
I binned the spade lugs and now use ring terminals, these don't work loose.
If your tacho jumps about this is also a sign of a bad connection to the coil or dizzy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah tacho jumps around like crazy when starting but runs fine when running.
Ahhhhhh minis

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1975 Clubman
1152cc, 40dcoe weber, RE83 cam, GRed head.

I Think before you spend any more (throw away) money on your car's electrics you should get it professionally checked. No point in getting bits and pieces of info from here confusion the crap out of yourself and still ending up with problems. You will be surprised how much cheaper it is finding an Honest repairer who knows Minis to have a look at your car.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Convertible Mini's advice is highly recommended

Have you had a read of this? http://www.simonbbc.com/ignition-kit-helper

In particular the section on what coil you want and how to measure yours. Also the section on how to check if your voltage regulator needs replacing before buying a new alternator

You will find that people who have not got your amount of 'knowledge' easily get confused when people throw too much info at them especially when the wrong description is used. I try and sit back and read and shake my head. but sometimes I can't help it. Perhaps I should leave it to the Experts hey !

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"