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| head stud snapped clean off https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80260 |
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| Author: | danny_ [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | head stud snapped clean off |
I am fitting a new head gasket to the moke and one of the long head studs snapped clean off.. These were bought from Karcraft last week so they are brand spanking new. I did them up to stage 1 haynes manual specs and SNAP! It broke right on the base of the block. Whats the best way to get the stud out? 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:45 pm ] |
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PM sent. 
Take those new studs back, then fit either s/h Clubby 998 pointy ones, or buy a competition stud kit (either ARP or Minispares). Kc sells em. |
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| Author: | Maxi23 [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have a very similar picture I took when I had my old clubby. I named it ohf_ck.jpg I'm sure whatever Doc pm'd you will solve your problem. All I can pass on is that I feel your pain 
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| Author: | Harley [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I snapped an engine stud on my car at one point, but that was because my torque wrench was out and was overtightening them. Fortunately for me it snapped flush with the top of the head so was easy to get out. |
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| Author: | danny_ [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:03 pm ] |
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Harley wrote: I snapped an engine stud on my car at one point, but that was because my torque wrench was out and was overtightening them.
Fortunately for me it snapped flush with the top of the head so was easy to get out. I wish mine was that simple to get out. I was only applying 25 foot pounds of torque. 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
They don't make cheap studs like they used to. ARP stud sets are top quality (made in USA), the Minispares comp studs seem OK though. Neither set is cheap like these were. |
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| Author: | willy [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:17 pm ] |
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Were the holes cleared? Did you use an assembly/thread lubricant? |
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| Author: | danny_ [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:24 pm ] |
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willy wrote: Were the holes cleared?
Did you use an assembly/thread lubricant? Clear and dry. I used a little bit of wd40 to lube the bottom of the thread and did it finger tight. |
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| Author: | Lillee [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Can I have this broken stud? I wish to test the hardness of it (you can have it back after that) |
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| Author: | danny_ [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 3:00 pm ] |
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Lillee wrote: Can I have this broken stud? I wish to test the hardness of it
(you can have it back after that) ' You sure can. Looks like i will have to buy the ARP stud kit. Edit: Is it ok to use the head bolts or really worth upgrading to studs? This engine isnt going to be a super dooper awesome engine its a bog 1100 with 1:3 roller rockers and i will probably keep it like that |
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| Author: | sitnlo62 [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 4:16 pm ] |
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danny_ wrote: Lillee wrote: Can I have this broken stud? I wish to test the hardness of it (you can have it back after that) ' You sure can. Looks like i will have to buy the ARP stud kit. Edit: Is it ok to use the head bolts or really worth upgrading to studs? This engine isnt going to be a super dooper awesome engine its a bog 1100 with 1:3 roller rockers and i will probably keep it like that Danny, I certainly would not be spending Money on ARP stud set for that motor. The Fact is the Bolts will work fine, after all they fitted them to thousands of Mini K's. without a problem. At the Very most you would want to get hold of some of those s/h Clubby 998 pointy ones that Kevin suggests. Get the Nuts and washers too. They are good and you won't pay an arm and a leg for them. Dave |
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| Author: | 9YaTaH [ Fri Feb 08, 2013 11:36 am ] |
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danny_ wrote: willy wrote: Clear and dry. I used a little bit of wd40 to lube the bottom of the thread and did it finger tight. Could have been enough to be an incompressible barrier ...at the bottom of the blind hole 
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| Author: | Mick [ Fri Feb 08, 2013 11:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
9YaTaH wrote: danny_ wrote: willy wrote: Clear and dry. I used a little bit of wd40 to lube the bottom of the thread and did it finger tight. Could have been enough to be an incompressible barrier ...at the bottom of the blind hole The torque wrench should have clicked first, had it been so. |
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| Author: | 66S [ Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
danny_ wrote: willy wrote: Were the holes cleared? Did you use an assembly/thread lubricant? Clear and dry. I used a little bit of wd40 to lube the bottom of the thread and did it finger tight. WD40 is not much of anything and certainly not much of a lubricant at all. I am not saying this is your problem but you should use something better, even engine oil but don't squirt it down the hole. Apply it to the threads on the stud/bolt. Al |
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| Author: | Harley [ Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:13 pm ] |
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You shouldn't lubricate the studs at all, I'd say the WD40 is better than anything else - if you have to put something on there. This is because as you lubricate it the tightening torque needs to be reduced, and knowing the exact amount to do this by is specific to what and how much lubricant is used and the grades of materials. Running them dry like the factory probably did is best when working to the original torque figures. |
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