can anyone give me the order of how ro repair the top and rear trailing arms on a mini so as to stop me from ruining them?

ive wire wheeled them and sprayed them

i was next about to get the old bearings replaced with the new ones

but do i make sure all the grease is removed or leave it there (some metal shavings may have gotten in when wire wheeling)

so i just slide the pins in ?

a little help would be quite useful

Thanks

Nick

The top arms are straight forward enough, once you remove the old needle rollers, then its a simple case of pushing in the new bearing(carefully so as not to damage the rollers or cage.)

The rear is another matter. The bush needs to be reamed using a special tool. Not really one to do without some planning.

Best to remove all the grease from the front arms, and as much as you can from the rear. At least enough to make sure it does not migrate back into the new bearings once you start pushing grease in again. There's a large hollow space inside the rear arms which fill up with old grease.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

it is not supposed to, originally there was a tapered steel tube in the bore of the arm to retain the grease.
Kits now have a plastic one, they fit poorly and can split. Keep the steel ones if you still have them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

or they are already split in the new kit you just bought. very common over here ....

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Rover 214 atm ....

Who designs and makes this sh!t... we know who sells it. Everybody!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

13' wheel moke rear arms have bearings both ends
No reaming required

You cannot Sell What You cannot Get, However,
if the original Metal tube is still fitted, Do not change it. The metal one was not always fitted at the factory,

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

Sounds like another candidate for remanufacturing. I'll see if I can find the part number.

Edit: I found it - AYA 7070.

John - I also found something very closely related that may interest you. You will know what I mean.

PM sent

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

so just take both to pedders with the new bearings and ask them to remove/install them for me

Rear arm sectioned and steel tube in-suit for those interested;

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

"You cannot Sell What You cannot Get,"

To some John, it reads "If I can't get quality, I will sell crap."

I will pay more for quality. Most will.

Perhaps for the needle rollers on the front arms, and one half of each rear arm, but the reaming will be a definite issue for pedders.

There's an auto engineering shop that was out near the corner of Stuart Hwy and Berrimah Rd at Berrimah. I had them do a pair of rear arms for me. But that was a decade ago, I'm not sure they will still be in the same place.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

i think ill just leave the rear bearings there is no reason to beleive they are knackered.. nor the fronts haha but ive already bought the front bearings

I certainly didn't read it to say that ,sounds like they have to sell what's available .,
ie: metal tubes aren't available .
Docs comment 's are basically a continuation of another thread about rubbish parts that are getting about nowdays .

Yeah sorry JS, I wasn't dissing you & the other Australian resellers, more the overseas suppliers who send this crap in.

The plastic tube thingy has been rubbish for quite a while. If Matt Read and others can get decent MC reservoirs moulded nowadays, surely the same could happen with these things if enough people bitch about the current `Quality'..

I put comp rear bumpstops on Mini Mad's Starlet Clubby a while back, and the whole LH arm was chocka with grease when I drilled & tapped a hole in it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.