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| Gauges https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80664 |
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| Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | Gauges |
Hi. Ausminians , i have a question about gauges , can you individually wire them up or do you have to use the Pcb ? This is for my 73 leyland clubby i have a 2 gauge cluster and a 3 gauge cluster as well as some individual gauges , and was hoping to customise my dash by putting the gauges in any position i want. Thanks in advance " i did a google search Site:ausmini.com gauges " and while lots came up it wasnt specific enough for me. Cheers Bill |
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| Author: | Mick [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
They're not dependent on the PCB. The gauges can be wired anywhere as long as you identify what the individual gauges need to operate. In most cases this is just +ve, -ve and the signal wire. You can extend them from cluster's wiring harness by soldering and heatshrinking in wiring tails to the back of the remote gauge. |
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| Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mick wrote: They're not dependent on the PCB. The gauges can be wired anywhere as long as you identify what the individual gauges need to operate.
In most cases this is just +ve, -ve and the signal wire. You can extend them from cluster's wiring harness by soldering and heatshrinking in wiring tails to the back of the remote gauge. Awesome Mick thats what i was hoping , much appreciated . Cheers Bill Oooooh edit that : do i need to wire in a voltage stabilizer somewhere in the wiring or on each gauge ? |
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| Author: | Mick [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you are using stock roundy temp and fuel gauges then yes. Tap into the PCB were it makes its connection with the back of the gauges and you will avoid having to run a seperate stabiliser. Otherwise pick up aftermarket gauges. They are not fussy with their voltages and will operate off 12 volts straight from the battery. Stabilisers are a hangover from the days of generators when the voltage in the car varied as the revs went up and down. Especially down low. It threw the gauge values out as it did so, so the gauges ran on 10 volts to level the playing field. |
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| Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mick wrote: If you are using stock roundy temp and fuel gauges then yes. Tap into the PCB were it makes its connection with the back of the gauges and you will avoid having to run a seperate stabiliser.
Otherwise pick up aftermarket gauges. They are not fussy with their voltages and will operate off 12 volts straight from the battery. Stabilisers are a hangover from the days of generators when the voltage in the car varied as the revs went up and down. Especially down low. It threw the gauge values out as it did so, so the gauges ran on 10 volts to level the playing field. Cheers mick so if the gauges are 73 onwards they would be fine ? " as in not need a stabilizer " Cheers Bill |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think all Mini gauges (except the late Rover ones maybe?) need the stabilizer/regulator. I bought 2 new S speedos in the last few years and both had a V stabilizer on them. As do all Oz Clubbies, I think. |
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| Author: | Mick [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Use ther terminations where the PCB connects to the gauges and you can avoid the hassle. |
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