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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:23 pm 
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Location: cowra nsw
Gday fellas I have a belt drive timing gear set up here and was wandering where you would buy replacement belts as well as how much I would get if I sold it? Cheers fellas

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 7:06 pm 
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Good belts are now hard to find.
The only common source now is a Chinese belt, I have tried to fit them to 2 motors now and found them too loose in both cases. As there's no tensioner on the original old belt kits, IMO this belt is not reliable enough.

Dayco Pirelli originals are NLA.
Mini Mania in USA has Gates kevlar race ones, I run one but the price is now $120 USD + freight.
This Gates kevlar belt is unavailable elsewhere.
http://www.minimania.com/part/C-AJJ3328 ... evlar-Race

I found another Gates belt in USA that will fit, but they are not sold here.
These belts are cheap but postage is the killer, if you want them I'd suggest you bring a bunch in and sell what you don't need.
http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/gat ... 8ubFYCSxD4

[edit]
New belt drive kits are expensive.
However some kits sold now have an idler to tension the belt, and the MED one runs a later design (stronger) HTD belt too.
http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... belt-drive

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 7:31 pm 
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So what's the benefit of running one? And also what would I sell a second hand set for?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 8:32 pm 
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Upside- They don't stretch like chains do so timing stays accurate.
Allegedly they also damp out some of the A series vibes between crank and cam.
Both these can give a minor power increase.

Downside- dunno how long they last.
Mina Mania says the std one only good for 20K miles and their kevlar one 50K miles.
But, I did 40K miles on a Dayco/Pirelli original and it still looked new. Not that I'd refit it...

Belts last longer if you keep oil off them. The later kits with the 2 piece flat plate cover can trap oil in the bottom. I'd leave the bottom plate off.. or drill some drain holes in the housing. Early housings were better for this, IMO.

I paid $200 5 years ago for an original Triger kit from somebody on here, it was NOS and complete.
If it's S/H, I'd say $100 tops.

For road cars these days, IMO it's hard to beat 2 new duplex chain sprockets and a German endless chain. For under $100.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 8:38 pm 
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Ok cheers doc

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:21 pm 
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I have been running a triger belt arrangement on my race mini for the last four years, I managed to get another complete set up of ebay Italy, cost me around $200 landed in aus. You can get belts from mini spares but as doc mentioned they are not the best fit.


M :-)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 12:44 pm 
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What about the MED direct drive kit?

Opinions or anyone used one yet ??

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... gear-drive

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 2:24 pm 
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MiniBob wrote:
What about the MED direct drive kit?

Opinions or anyone used one yet ??

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... gear-drive


Gear drives are LOUD. A friend put a Peter Jackson one on his 302 V8 fitted Ford Capri. He didn't keep it long... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 2:38 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
The direct drive does look like an interesting bit of kit!

Must be a reason why this was not a good idea from the factory for consumer use. For nearly the same outlay for the extra cog, you remove the need for a chain.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:58 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
MiniBob wrote:
What about the MED direct drive kit?

Opinions or anyone used one yet ??

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... gear-drive


Gear drives are LOUD. A friend put a Peter Jackson one on his 302 V8 fitted Ford Capri. He didn't keep it long... :lol:


Will it be louder than the 7 port induction noise Doc ?
(and I'm going deaf anyway :P )
I fitted a similat kit to a Defender I had several years ago. Made it sound like a giant electric lawn mower (the gears were helical) but it eventually went bang.
Manufacturer said it had been incorrectly fitted, (read whacked into place)something I don't think can happen with the MED kit?

Is the hardness thick enough in your opinion please?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:40 pm 
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Don't know about the Mini set up, but the guy I work with just stripped a whole lot of teeth off the timing belt on his Mazda whilst driving home on Friday. Luckily it didn't trash the engine. Cost him over grand to get a new belt and water pump fitted.

Think I'll stick with my Rollmaster double row chains (in both the Minis and the Rover V8s).

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:14 pm 
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Location: south coast, nsw
Hi , Can you still get the seals for the triger set up?
Are they the same as the belt timing kit minisport
sell ( the seals that is?)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:25 pm 
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ykg2s4 wrote:
Hi , Can you still get the seals for the triger set up?
Are they the same as the belt timing kit minisport
sell ( the seals that is?)

Karcraft and others have the seals, note there are 2 types of crank seal, early and late.
Late seals are bigger diameter, they upsized the bottom gear seal diameter for reliability.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:40 pm 
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Thanks for that doc. :D


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