hi all, im just wondering if $800 is a good price to buy a race 1380 short motor? i'll be inspecting the engine tomorrow it is stripped down so i can inspect journals, bores etc. but it still has the same pistons and rings as he raced it with. Apparently has only done 2 races with it.

as far as i can tell so far engine specs are:
1380 cosworth pistons
a+ turbo rods
large journal auto crank
std 1275 duplex timing gear
649 cam
4 bolt centre main strap
line bored block
block has external oil filter in line with original filter (double filtering)
alloy head that dropped a valve seat with slight damage to the head (not onto this motor, onto his other race 1330, destroyed the piston)
std rockers
hif 44 carb with inlet manifold
spare brand new 649 cam

i was planning on building a 1275 auto up. i have the auto block, new pistons, crank, rods, head and an a+998 auto engine for the donor gearbox.
I'm wondering how hard it would be to convert this 1380 engine to take the auto gearbox?
This motor has everything already done to it (appanrently he has $4000 worth of reciepts to show me when he got it all done up) and i would have to pay for block boring, machining etc for the other 1275 bits. so would this be a cheaper option to buy and use?

Claeten

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

and another thing i just remembered. apparently it is supposed to take a 'shim' head gasket??? never heard of it..

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

a manual 1275 block won't go on an auto, only the other way around

so unless it WAS an auto block, you can't use it with your auto box

that said, all those bits would be worth having for $800

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http://www.minisport.com.au/prod67.htm

You could put a manual block on an auto but it would mean plugging 1 oilway and then machining the oil pump recess 8mm deeper. Also drill 2 cross holes in the relief valve seat. Not worth it.

And no way you can put much of a cam in it, it won't get off the line. Forget the 649 or anything like it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That price sounds OK but I would be worried that if the bores aren't good, you cannot bore the block any further and will need sleeving which will quickly double your purchase price...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

You can get 74mm pistons (1400cc) but it depends if bores were offset when bored last time. If not it's a bit too thin between #2 and #3.

I'd be looking for an auto block as others said.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Clae

That is pretty good value for what has been done to it, the 4 bolt main strap would cost probably 500 for the strap and line boring.

If your not interested then I might well be.

Regards
Smarty

Ahh.. yes i do know about the Cometic Head Gaskets. Good gasket



What cam would you recommend for a 1310 Auto?

I already have a 1275 auto block which i was going to build up to a 1310. It may be better for me to sell the auto stuff i have aquired and build this 1380 up.

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

Darren i think i will buy the bits off him just to see what i can do with it all. I have an a+ gearbox to put it on

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

Greig Malaure (Mini Classic) built an auto for his GF a few years ago, he put an RE13 cam in. It made 112HP at the crank with a single HS6, but it was a 1430 I think.
I would not go bigger for an auto. An RE13 is about 274° duration and .290" lobe lift.
A better bet now would be an RE83, it gives more torque and nearly the same HP but peak power is at 6000 not 6500.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok so i ended up buying it. Heres some photos of what i just got myself into then ive got a few questions

































Background...He says the short motor has only done 20laps on the track before the timing gear came loose and stripped the woodruff key and slipped. Checked the cam lobes are all fine
This is not the head off this block. This head is from the 1330 race motor when it dropped the valve seat into the 1330 piston. He now runs a GR Head instead when rebuilt the 1330

With these bits i now plan on building a quick road mini. So maybe a tunning day or 2 at the track.

Questions
1. Is the head fixable without spending a bucket on it? what to get done to it?
2. You can still see hone marks on the bores so will it be ok to use again?
3. He said the Cometic Headgasket has only been used once so will it be ok to use again?
4. Ive taken photos of the markings on the head. Its a 12G940 11 Stud... WRST2, 12G1805? Any ideas on who did it? He bought it from the UK

other questions i can ask later

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

12G1805 is a Mk2 Cooper S head.
Head needs a new exhaust insert pressed or shrunk in. Before doing that get it crack tested. I think I can see a crack between the valves.... if cracked bin the head and find another.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i didnt wanna hear that

is there anything to do to fix the crack? its a shame to waste an s head

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

where's the 4 bolt centre main???



I think your eyesight is crap Kev, I reckon I can see 3 cracks...



MK2 S head is the same casting as a Morris 1100S head, just a plain 12G940 with bigger valves in it... show it to a head reconditioner and they'll tell you what to do with it

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a visual measurement of the block between 2&3 would suggest that the block hasn't been offset bored - bugger!!

that's why the cometic gasket is required, not enough meat between the bores there to keep a gasket on it

see this thread for discussion on offset boring - http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80800

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