Shafts, CVs all the same, water pump, cooling system, alternator - all the same.
What year auto box? There are ways around the enhibitor switch - if you don't wire it in it wont be an issue.
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| Converting a Mannual Mini to Auto https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80962 |
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| Author: | kiwiinwgtn [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Converting a Mannual Mini to Auto |
I am trying to understand what parts are interchangeable to convert a Manual Mini to an Auto Mini. Front subframe Hardie Spicer Joints Carb and Manifold Electrics Engine & Gearbox gear selector what else would be required Thanks Kiwiinwgtn |
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| Author: | Harley [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
To go to auto, you'll need the engine, box, selector mechanism and subframe. Everything else from the manual can be used. |
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| Author: | kiwiinwgtn [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:01 pm ] |
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so the drive shafts are standard mini, CV's etc. Isn't there a enhibator switch as well |
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| Author: | Harley [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Shafts, CVs all the same, water pump, cooling system, alternator - all the same. What year auto box? There are ways around the enhibitor switch - if you don't wire it in it wont be an issue.
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| Author: | kiwiinwgtn [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:16 pm ] |
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A buddy of mine is needing to convert his car as he can no longer drive a manual car so we are trying to cobble all the parts together. Me being me I like to understand whats involved I thought there was more parts required that we have listed, like special carb linkage etc. |
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| Author: | jubblies [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:20 pm ] |
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The only carb linkage that is different is the kickdown (i think). the kickdown bar goes to a lever near the diff on the autobox. For memory they ran a bigger carb (1 1/2" as std) |
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| Author: | kiwiinwgtn [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:25 pm ] |
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yes it did have a 1-1/2 inch carb, thanks i will add that to the list I also thought the inlet and exhaust manifolds where also different, i wrecked an auto 20 years ago so its been a while |
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| Author: | Harley [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:26 pm ] |
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A little trick is you don't need the kickdown linkage. What you can do instead it connect it to a choke cable. This way you get to pick what revs / speed it shifts gears. 
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| Author: | jubblies [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:47 pm ] |
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Connect the choke cable to the downshift lever? Aren't they 'semi-automatic' so you could just knock it down a gear? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:50 pm ] |
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kiwiinwgtn wrote: yes it did have a 1-1/2 inch carb, thanks i will add that to the list
I also thought the inlet and exhaust manifolds where also different, i wrecked an auto 20 years ago so its been a while Manifolds on the old Minimatic ones are standard with an HS4, the same as on a late `70s Clubby or 1275. Rover ones... I dunno. You can convert a 998 or 1098 block to automatic pretty easily, just need to block one oilway and drill 2 holes in the relief valve seat. But on a 1275 the oil pump recess is 8mm too shallow- so it's easier to find an auto block. |
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| Author: | Harley [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
jubblies wrote: Connect the choke cable to the downshift lever?
Aren't they 'semi-automatic' so you could just knock it down a gear? You can still do that. The gearshift lever in the car and the kickdown are different. The shifter tells the car what gear to go to, the kickdown tells the box when to change. |
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| Author: | jubblies [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:17 pm ] |
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Harley wrote: jubblies wrote: Connect the choke cable to the downshift lever? Aren't they 'semi-automatic' so you could just knock it down a gear? You can still do that. The gearshift lever in the car and the kickdown are different. The shifter tells the car what gear to go to, the kickdown tells the box when to change. Ah, yep, I see. |
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| Author: | Kennomini [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:43 pm ] |
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I though the autos had the same CV's as the S's, metal universal joints with unique diff output shafts. To change to pot joints or rubber hardy spicer joints you need to swap the diff and output shafts. Is this all correct gurus 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:58 pm ] |
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Kennomini wrote: I though the autos had the same CV's as the S's, metal universal joints with unique diff output shafts.
To change to pot joints or rubber hardy spicer joints you need to swap the diff and output shafts. Is this all correct gurus Rubber joints are NOT Hardy Spicer design. You don't have a choice with auto boxes because the early ones have Hardy Spicer joints standard. Their diff output shafts are the same as an S, but the auto's side covers are a different shape. Splines on the auto driveshafts are the same as a rubber coupling has. So I'd keep the Hardy Spicers on these. The (late?) Rover autos have pot joints, so use one of these if you really want pot joints and an automatic. |
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| Author: | bnicho [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Image my Moke Auto and then converted back six years later. It's not difficult if you can find an engine/box and subframe. Cheers, Brett. |
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