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Unable to disconnect braided hose from clutch slave!!!
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80963		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  iidannyii [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Unable to disconnect braided hose from clutch slave!!!
Hey guys.

Finally found that leak, I squeezed the rubber outer on the braided hose that runs from the Clutch Slave to the metal bracket. The rubber outer was filled with fluid, and had stretched (Rubber was baggy around the braided hose).

I can't seem to undo the hose; however..

When I undo the hose from the slave cylinder, it ends up tightning the hose on the bracket, and vice versa. Is there a system to removing this particular hose?

I tried to remove the thin metal piping with 6mm hex collars that runs from the master to the bracket, but they seem to have rusted up. (Is the pipe connected to the hex collars? Or should the hex collars spin freely?).

I was out there for 2 hours trying to get the thing to come off... No cigar.

Thanks!

Dan.
Author:  Harley [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
Remove the pipe from master cylinder to hose, then the big nut.
Then remove the hose from the slave.
Author:  iidannyii [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
The pipe connecting to the master has 6mm hex nuts on either end.

These have rusted to the pipe. I grabbed the pipe with a pair of pliers, and tried to crack the nuts; no good. The pipe started twisting so I stopped.
Author:  Harley [ Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well then you're boned.
:lol:


Get it off, get / make a new pipe.
Pretty easy, its a standard male flare both ends, 3/8 unf tube nuts both ends, 1/4" bundy tube, the straight length is 12 inches.
Author:  MattE [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Might be worth letting the frozen threads soak in Inox (or another quality product, probably not WD40). They may just loosen up. If you get any movement at all with your spanner, then just move it a tiny bit, then reverese it to the start point. And repeat. And repeat. This will help to clear the threads of built up rust and crap.

You'll want to be using a flare nut wrench, given that you are putting a fair bit of effort into it.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:42 am ]
Post subject: 
Always use a (single hex) flare nut ring spanner on the pipe nuts. An open ender or pliers/multigrips will distort them, they are fragile.
If you don't have a flare nut ring spanner, the next best thing is a standard ring spanner with a slot cut in it. :wink:
Author:  awdmoke [ Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:11 am ]
Post subject: 
Both the pipe and hose are stuffed now, so just cut them and remove with a proper spanner.

Then fit a braided teflon hose from the master to the slave cylinder.
Author:  iidannyii [ Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:04 am ]
Post subject: 
I can use an ordinary spanner, this is no problem. I can get a good grip on the hex nut.

I'll try and soak it in inox for a week.. Re applying a good spray every day for 7 days and see how it reacts to some brute force!





Harley wrote:
Well then you're boned.
:lol:


Get it off, get / make a new pipe.
Pretty easy, its a standard male flare both ends, 3/8 unf tube nuts both ends, 1/4" bundy tube, the straight length is 12 inches.



awdmoke wrote:
Both the pipe and hose are stuffed now, so just cut them and remove with a proper spanner.

Then fit a braided teflon hose from the master to the slave cylinder.



Where can these parts be found?


Dan.
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Sat Apr 06, 2013 12:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:


Where can these parts be found?


Dan.


Dan these parts can be found at your local mini parts store/workshop

so, where abouts are you ??? & we will be able to send you to the right mini shop/place/suburb/state yeah?
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