when getting a wheel alinement as far as hi lows go & ride height would you have the drivers side slightly higher then the passenger? as you do all your driving that side?

or same all around? does the ride height effect the wheel alignment much?
I heard it can give it more positive? is that true?

The higher the ride height, the more postive the camber.

As for RHS v LHS bias, I would not be too concerned about driver mass effect on handling for normal road use.

More relevant is the affect of excess weight on the car's power to weight ratio. To that end I myself have been intending, for the last 20 years, to go on a diet.

I am certain my Cooper S was much faster when I was just 21.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

My motorbike mechanic always has a laugh at blokes spending thousands of dollars on lightened go fast carbon bits and pieces when they actually need to just lose their middle age paunch!
I suck my gut in every time I go there now!
That's a fascinating question about whether the driver's side should be set a tiny bit higher. What do other people think?
I'm looking at putting coil springs in my resto with hi lo's. Have many people had experience with these?

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71 Clubman GT
63 Morris 850
66 Mk 1 Cooper S

We used to put a couple of mm into a race car to get the corner weights spot on with me in it but it really makes stuff all difference

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Potato

We get the same thing in the pushbike trade.... Guys looking to shave every last "excess" milligram from the bike, when they would gain so much more benefit by carving several times the bike's weight from themselves.

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

if you change the ride height, then you have changed the wheel alignment settings in the process.

& the changes in wheel alignment that come-about from the change in ride height-> depend on where the car was set in the first place...

but it don`t really matter much because simply put--> if you lift the car up, then you have changed the wheel alignment

if you lower the car, then you have changed the wheel alignment

simple as that

i generally add 5mm (higher) to the drivers side "IF" there is "Normally" only one person in the car at "Most" times...(((depending on the weight of said person)))

edit--> minis (& nearly all cars) have some built-in Bump steer that causes a pile of problems with regard to the toe-changes that occur when changing ride heights,,, the camber & caster also go through a swing of changes as the suspension raises & lowers

Morris Marinas for a really good example (or rrather i should call that a very bad example as the case may be) they swing horribly wrong as the suspension raises & falls
they`re the worst i`ve ever seen

however, i went to great lengths (when i built my buggy) to make sure that my buggy does NOT change the toe-setting during suspension swing/travel (up & down movement) this is commonly called "Zero-Bump-Steer"... but the camber does change a little bit & that`s a good thing in this case cause it changes the way i want it to...

but most cars will change both toe & camber quite a fair bit throughout suspension travel

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Spot on Matt.

I saw in the CAMS regs for nb minis that moving suspension pick up points to a set limit is allowed. Do many of the front running cars actually have revised geometry?? I think you once mentioned slightly repositioning the rack to reduce bump steer.

M

cool thanks lads