I am trying to understand what parts are interchangeable to convert a Manual Mini to an Auto Mini.

Front subframe
Hardie Spicer Joints
Carb and Manifold
Electrics
Engine & Gearbox
gear selector

what else would be required

Thanks

Kiwiinwgtn

To go to auto, you'll need the engine, box, selector mechanism and subframe.
Everything else from the manual can be used.

so the drive shafts are standard mini, CV's etc.

Isn't there a enhibator switch as well

Shafts, CVs all the same, water pump, cooling system, alternator - all the same.

What year auto box? There are ways around the enhibitor switch - if you don't wire it in it wont be an issue.

A buddy of mine is needing to convert his car as he can no longer drive a manual car so we are trying to cobble all the parts together.

Me being me I like to understand whats involved

I thought there was more parts required that we have listed, like special carb linkage etc.

The only carb linkage that is different is the kickdown (i think).
the kickdown bar goes to a lever near the diff on the autobox.

For memory they ran a bigger carb (1 1/2" as std)

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Justin

yes it did have a 1-1/2 inch carb, thanks i will add that to the list

I also thought the inlet and exhaust manifolds where also different, i wrecked an auto 20 years ago so its been a while

A little trick is you don't need the kickdown linkage. What you can do instead it connect it to a choke cable. This way you get to pick what revs / speed it shifts gears.

Connect the choke cable to the downshift lever?

Aren't they 'semi-automatic' so you could just knock it down a gear?

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Justin

Manifolds on the old Minimatic ones are standard with an HS4, the same as on a late `70s Clubby or 1275.
Rover ones... I dunno.

You can convert a 998 or 1098 block to automatic pretty easily, just need to block one oilway and drill 2 holes in the relief valve seat.
But on a 1275 the oil pump recess is 8mm too shallow- so it's easier to find an auto block.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You can still do that. The gearshift lever in the car and the kickdown are different. The shifter tells the car what gear to go to, the kickdown tells the box when to change.

Ah, yep, I see.

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Justin

I though the autos had the same CV's as the S's, metal universal joints with unique diff output shafts.
To change to pot joints or rubber hardy spicer joints you need to swap the diff and output shafts.
Is this all correct gurus

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Rubber joints are NOT Hardy Spicer design.

You don't have a choice with auto boxes because the early ones have Hardy Spicer joints standard. Their diff output shafts are the same as an S, but the auto's side covers are a different shape.
Splines on the auto driveshafts are the same as a rubber coupling has.
So I'd keep the Hardy Spicers on these.


The (late?) Rover autos have pot joints, so use one of these if you really want pot joints and an automatic.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Image my Moke Auto and then converted back six years later. It's not difficult if you can find an engine/box and subframe.

Cheers,
Brett.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2