Hi All,
Just trying to get my mini started and going through the list of things to check.
I can't find a spec sheet on the bosch GT40 from what I've searched it seems they are 3 ohm but does anyone not the tolerance spec as in 3 ohm +or-....?
Mine has a resistance of 3.6 ohms.

Which i was thinking was on the high end, it will be nice and not burn my points out to quick but wont help with the strongest spark. Thanks in advance.

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

Test the resistance of your meter's probe leads, don't assume they are zero.
My new GT40 (oil filled) measured 3.4 ohm, [- resistance of the probe leads, 0.4 ohm] = 3.0 ohms dead.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Good point I normally remember to do that, mine are .4 too so it brings it back to 3.2 ohms which is probably with in spec. That is measured cold too well 20 ish

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

I'm not sure where the GT comes into the GT40. There's nothing that sporty about 3.4 (ish) ohms at all is there....

The SimonBBC dizzy I have will take 1.4 Ohms for under 90 bucks.
http://www.simonbbc.com/distributors/4c ... istributor

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yes it's not that GT but the 3ohms suit the points system, if you run a low resistance coil with the points you'd just burn it them out quickly. I do plan on doing the electronic conversion I just want to get it running first, then it will get a different coil.

_________________
I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

Yes, certainly.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Be careful going electronic, many aftermarket modules only suit a 3 ohm coil.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Uh huh. SimonBBC and Accuspark both sell repro 25d and 45d dizzies. The High Energy points from SimonBBC are good for 1.4 Ohms and greater. A complete coil, lead and dizzy kit is about 77 pounds. No need to modify a pulsar dizzy, and you get your choice of advance curve in a brand new distributor. Its a brave new world!

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

For that money, why not their electronic one?

I was thinking of doing a conversion like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Powerspark-e ... 2ff&_uhb=1
After I check the condition of the current dizzy. What are peoples thoughts on these types of kits?

_________________
I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

The cheap ones like this work OK, but-
1. Don't use a coil less than 3 ohms resistance
2. Don't reverse the polarity.
3. Don't leave ignition turned on with motor not running.

Any of above can fry the module.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

HHHmmmm interesting to know what about these oneshttp://www.minisport.com/mini-spare ... LU142.html? They seem to be better or are you better just to buy a complete electronic dizzy?

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

Sorry, I meant high energy output. That is their electronic units. Any dizzy curve, brand new and high voltage output electronic. You wont see a rock solid timing setting like a new dizzy at 800 rpm. Mad to do anything else really. Convertible mini sells them locally too.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Wow they are pretty cheap I was just looking over his site, because I have a 29d fitted to my 1275 but none of there listings are for a 29d can I just interchange it with the 25d spec one like this http://www.simonbbc.com/distributors/4c ... -rotor-arm or wont that work?

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

The electronic Ignition Kits I sell work fine with Bosch GT40 coils and I have never had a problem with them personally. They can be used with coils having primary resistance above 1.5 ohms. ( Not below) I test each kit before I post it out to make sure they are OK. Suitable for negative systems only and always make sure Coil is connected correctly "Ignition Positive feed to the Plus side of coil". Make sure you measure coil primary resistance before you connect it up. If in doubt, ask questions before you connect it up not after you blow it up because I do not give refunds. That is why I test them before I pack and post. And also .... If you have an ignition problem like burning out points prematurely rectify the problem first before you fit Electronic ignition Kit. These Kits work fine but when there is a problem they blow quicker than a fuse. They do not repair or rectify Ignition faults.

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