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Minieleven11
PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:47 pm 
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Hi guys i am wanting to know the thread size for the ball joint cups that screw onto the hub? i dont have a hub or ball joint cup here to measure so if anyone knows it would be a great help.
Thanks Jack
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GT mowog
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:09 am 
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They are yet another one of those BMC wonders, 1-1/8" x 20 tpi. No standard thread type I can find.

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Minieleven11
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 11:50 am 
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Ok thanks for that now I just need to find a tap.
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simon k
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 11:54 am 
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Minieleven11 wrote:
Ok thanks for that now I just need to find a tap.


lol - not a chance! and if you did find one, it'd cost you $500

they're a thread you'd need to cut on a lathe

I'm very very curious about what you're up to with it

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Minieleven11
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:20 pm 
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I have found a few for under $100. Yes that is the other option to cut it on a lathe and it would probably be a better option. I am looking into making some ball joint spacers to get the suspension geometry back to normal/better on a lowered mini.
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simon k
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 1:41 pm 
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Minieleven11 wrote:
I have found a few for under $100..


really?! 1.125" x 20 tpi??

I see there's a 1.125 x 18 available which says it's a UNEF (extreme fine) thread...

Minieleven11 wrote:
Yes that is the other option to cut it on a lathe and it would probably be a better option. I am looking into making some ball joint spacers to get the suspension geometry back to normal/better on a lowered mini.


now even more curious... :D

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Harley
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 2:14 pm 
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Isn't that why we have adjustable camber kits? Spacing the ball joints out would mean your top arm sits higher - so no more bump stop. :?
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:10 pm 
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There are other funny threads in a Mini, eg. the inner Oz rack joint locknut is 7/8" x 20tpi, UNF form.
They did this so you cannot bodge it (without a lot of work). :lol:

[edit] `____' added above for emphasis.

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Tue Apr 09, 2013 7:57 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Minieleven11
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:28 pm 
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This is second hand but there are new ones for a bit more.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-1-8-x-20-t ... 22f8d679a0
Adjustable camber kits wont really change your camber change curve, only static camber. When a mini is lowered the bottom arm is close to horizontal and as it goes into bump the arm pulls negative camber out of your wheel and normally the only way (without modifying pickup points) to fix this is to add more static nagative camber. If the bottom outer ball joint is lowered the arm is on more of an angle and as it goes into bump it actually gains negative camber rather than loosing it which is what you want. its hard to explain without a drawing.
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:51 pm 
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Why not just move the pickup points, many people do, it IS allowed in the regs.

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GT mowog
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 5:25 pm 
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Minieleven11 wrote:
Ok thanks for that now I just need to find a tap.


Yr welcome :)

drmini in aust wrote:
There are other funny threads in a Mini, eg. the inner Oz rack joint locknut is 7/8" x 20 UNF form.
They did this so you cannot bodge it (without a lot of work). :lol:


Ah, I think you'll find these are UNEF is memory serves ;)

Minieleven11 wrote:
This is second hand but there are new ones for a bit more.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-1-8-x-20-t ... 22f8d679a0


Well, there you go. I know you can get them made locally for similar money.

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simon k
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 11:28 am 
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Minieleven11 wrote:
This is second hand but there are new ones for a bit more.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-1-8-x-20-t ... 22f8d679a0


bloody hell! I'm amazed :D

Minieleven11 wrote:
Adjustable camber kits wont really change your camber change curve, only static camber. When a mini is lowered the bottom arm is close to horizontal and as it goes into bump the arm pulls negative camber out of your wheel and normally the only way (without modifying pickup points) to fix this is to add more static nagative camber. If the bottom outer ball joint is lowered the arm is on more of an angle and as it goes into bump it actually gains negative camber rather than loosing it which is what you want. its hard to explain without a drawing.


cool

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Minieleven11
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 10:56 pm 
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Does anyone know if the 1' 1/8 thread on the standard mini hub would be the same as that on a metro sealed ball joint? like this one. http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1178.htm
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KLAS
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:07 am 
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Minieleven11 wrote:
Does anyone know if the 1' 1/8 thread on the standard mini hub would be the same as that on a metro sealed ball joint? like this one. http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1178.htm
IIRC these are metric, M36x1 or something like that

edit: should be M34x1.5 according to my supplier

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