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Replacing steering rack boot
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Author:  phillb [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 9:26 am ]
Post subject:  Replacing steering rack boot

What is the best method/ steps with the rack fitted to the car. One of my gaiters has a hole.

Cheers

Author:  1380 K [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 

This is my way.
*take the wheel off.
*crack tie rod end locking nut
*take tie rod end ball joint nut off
*disconnect ball joint from hub (multiple tools to do it properly) Or with just a hammer give it a couple of good hits on the hub just above the ball joint being really careful not to hit the ball joint itself or the thread on it. (Can leave the nut on ballpoint thread to protect it a little.) This may be quite difficult depending on how long it's been since separated. If this fails sometimes using two hammers from either side of the hub can work.
* rotate the tie rod end off the tie rod making sure to count the rotations so that it can be put back on in the same place.
* remove the tie rod end locking nut and boot.
*make sure any dirt that got in steering rack is removed.
*reverse process

Author:  phillb [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 9:54 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks that's what I had in mind but I am wondering about the best way to replace any lost oil. Is it sufficient to tilt the car toward the other side and fill up as much as possible before replacing the gaiter?

Author:  1380 K [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:13 am ]
Post subject: 

No oil should be lost. If oil is in the boot and comes out of the rack then the seal in the rack itself has been damaged and is letting oil past. This will need replacing as well.

As for topping up the oil I'm not sure. I've never done it before.

Author:  TheMiniMan [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:28 am ]
Post subject: 

1380 K wrote:
No oil should be lost. If oil is in the boot and comes out of the rack then the seal in the rack itself has been damaged and is letting oil past. This will need replacing as well.

As for topping up the oil I'm not sure. I've never done it before.


ah,,, not quite... there really should be oil in each boot & when they tear they leak oil out,,, that`s what normally happens,

there`s no seal between the inards of the rack & the ends of the rack where the boots go, if there wasn`t any oil in the boots then i`d strongly suggest you put some in :-)

Author:  phillb [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:33 am ]
Post subject: 

TheMiniMan wrote:
1380 K wrote:
No oil should be lost. If oil is in the boot and comes out of the rack then the seal in the rack itself has been damaged and is letting oil past. This will need replacing as well.

As for topping up the oil I'm not sure. I've never done it before.


ah,,, not quite... there really should be oil in each boot & when they tear they leak oil out,,, that`s what normally happens,

there`s no seal between the inards of the rack & the ends of the rack where the boots go, if there wasn`t any oil in the boots then i`d strongly suggest you put some in :-)


Thanks guys

But what's the best way of getting the oil back in, and in the right amount.

Should I tilt the car, drain, then add a measured amount by squirting past the new gaiter.

Or top it up with the gaiter off and the car tipped over the other way.

Of course I'm not sure how much I've lost out of the rack.

Cheers

Author:  1380 K [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:34 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
1380 K wrote:
No oil should be lost. If oil is in the boot and comes out of the rack then the seal in the rack itself has been damaged and is letting oil past. This will need replacing as well.

As for topping up the oil I'm not sure. I've never done it before.


ah,,, not quite... there really should be oil in each boot & when they tear they leak oil out,,, that`s what normally happens,

there`s no seal between the inards of the rack & the ends of the rack where the boots go, if there wasn`t any oil in the boots then i`d strongly suggest you put some in


Ahh fair enough. I was just assuming they where like most modern racks. Hope they are made of a rubber that isn't broken down by oil.

Author:  phillb [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:35 am ]
Post subject: 

1380 K wrote:
Quote:
1380 K wrote:
No oil should be lost. If oil is in the boot and comes out of the rack then the seal in the rack itself has been damaged and is letting oil past. This will need replacing as well.

As for topping up the oil I'm not sure. I've never done it before.


ah,,, not quite... there really should be oil in each boot & when they tear they leak oil out,,, that`s what normally happens,

there`s no seal between the inards of the rack & the ends of the rack where the boots go, if there wasn`t any oil in the boots then i`d strongly suggest you put some in


Ahh fair enough. I was just assuming they where like most modern racks. Hope they are made of a rubber that isn't broken down by oil.


That's ok, you had me worried for a minute there. :D

Author:  NG [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:44 am ]
Post subject: 

or buy these & stretch them over by hand..

fill with oil easy!!! no wheel alinement again.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-Manual ... 709wt_1378

Author:  Mick [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:52 am ]
Post subject: 

Measure the oil out into an oil can and squirt it in under the gaitor once it is in place with the small end bound down.

Go easy the first time you move the rack from right to left. The boot will be full of oil with a very small passage to escape through into the rack. Go slow or the oil will squirt out of the boot.


Image

Author:  phillb [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:00 am ]
Post subject: 

Mick wrote:
Measure the oil out into an oil can and squirt it in under the gaitor once it is in place with the small end bound down.

Go easy the first time you move the rack from right to left. The boot will be full of oil with a very small passage to escape through into the rack. Go slow or the oil will squirt out of the boot.


Image


Ok ta. so do I try and drain out the existing oil first and then add in the correct amount. or just top it up. What's the right amount of oil in either case.

Cheers

Author:  Mick [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:03 am ]
Post subject: 

The workshop manual says 200 milllitres of 140 SAE grade oil. Or use 90/140EP.

You will have to make a judgement call on the oil you need. If it looks dry, or you can drain it out then do your best. A little bit more won't do any harm, but too much will cause it to squirt out the ends as you go hard lock to lock quickly.

Author:  phillb [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:29 am ]
Post subject: 

Mick wrote:
The workshop manual says 200 milllitres of 140 SAE grade oil. Or use 90/140EP.

You will have to make a judgement call on the oil you need. If it looks dry, or you can drain it out then do your best. A little bit more won't do any harm, but too much will cause it to squirt out the ends as you go hard lock to lock quickly.


Ok cheers

Author:  simon k [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 2:49 pm ]
Post subject: 

Heat up the oil so it flows better ;)

I have a funnel with a metal brake line silasticed on the end, brake line under the boot, bend the brake line to a convinient position then I pour the warm oil into the funnel

Author:  peterb [ Sat Apr 20, 2013 5:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

When I worked in BMC dealers, about 4,000 years ago, we used to put about half a cup of STP in them, probably can't buy it anymore.

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