Hi guys,

I'm replacing the front wheel bearings at the moment. The front right one went well, it still has a little play though.

The left one needed some persuasion to remove the hub from the bearings. They didn't give up without a fight! Now one of the bearing inners has fused to the hub. I can't get them apart. Any ideas?


Cheers

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I've had that, I think in desperation I used a dremel to cut most of the way through the bearing then split it with a chisel. Potential to damage the shaft so that should be a last resort. If you have access to a proper clamp and press, that would be safest.

Olde skool method-
Angle grind a flat on it, down to within a poofteenth from the shaft.
Then hit the flat with a hammer & cold chisel. Twist off.

Alternative, quicker method-
grind 2 or 3 square sided grooves in it then use a 2 or 3 leg bearing puller.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Once they get like that, the drive flange is stuffed.

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I agree. Good thing you can still buy new ones (I think?) for drum brakes.

Pity if you have a 997 or 998 Cooper though, as theirs are NLA. However I have reclaimed them in the past by brazing the worn areas up with nickel bronze rod, and re-machining them to fit the bearings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Oops, I threw out two last month

Damn, now I feel rotten...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I think you can get new ones, but if you can reclaim them, then why not? From what we are getting supplied with of late, the old re-built bits would have to be better.

I haven't seen any Cooper Flanges. How are they different?

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I've got a picture of a pair here. The discs mount onto the back of the flange, instead of drums mounting on the front. Hence the backs are machined. The difference to the flanges above is marked. Also the studs pass through the flange instead of being mounted on them.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Gee, they are pretty cactus.

So, just at a quick glance of those, would it be possible to machine some drum brake types to same as these?

Only curious, no, I don't have any Cooper Brakes!

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Drum ones are too thin and I think their diameter is a lot smaller (I don't have a Cooper disc one to measure).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Good Second hand ones are a good option as well and they are made the way they should be

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

OK, cheers on that



Doh, yes, of course!

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Well 45 minutes this morning with a BFH and a punch and..

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Good stuff!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The part you have on the drive flange Turn it over and check for wear I think it may have some grooves worn in it

_________________
" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"