Just throwing this out there but...If you had a couple grand floating round, how would you turn a standard efi rover mpi into a fast road mini without carbies? I have no idea as to what parts would make up a quick mini but would love to have a cool 100bhp on tap, then id be extremely happy.

When somone works that out they'll be lifted into the air like the kids on the taco ads!


Shortest answer is: the mini injection system can't deliver enough fuel to get big power.
You'd have to bin all the factory electronics and go aftermarket.

Not possible?? Supercharger? ?

You can get a bolt on M45 supercharger kit in the UK, its primarily designed for MPI engines though. Your SPI engine won't get the same power benefits, and you'd have to rebuild your engine first making it an expensive exercise.

Bolt on wise- what you can do is whip the head off, raise the compression, put big inlet and exhaust valves in, and refit with 1.3 or 1.5 rockers. Get some extractors and a sports exhaust, K&N filter in the stock airbox and you'll get a very nice torque increase making the car really good to drive around.

Maybe forced induction but I don't think it'd get up to 100bhp even at the flywheel.
You'd probably have to go an aftermarket injection setup (I think Special Components make a kit).
If your budget is $2000 I'd say head mods and maybe a lightweight steel flywheel will free up some power.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

using the right parts and a full engine rebuild:
with "real" MPi, speaking MEMS2J and not the japaneese SPi, it's possible to reach 90+ HP with 1300ccm. you have to remap the ECU, and yes, thats possible.
speaking SPi, you can get 80+ HP out of 1300ccm. without remap, as this is very hard to do.
if you want more you need an aftermarket ECU. and more displacement will help.

with just bold on parts like head, exhaust, ect. you can expect to get around 75HP. a MPi will run a bit lean around 3000RPM, so make sure it's not to lean. some factory fuel pressure regulators don't reach the 3bar printed on it

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Rover 214 atm ....

Sounds like this maybe the way to go. This would be similar to a stage 3 kit from mini sport right. Maybe I was shooting too high! 75bhp is still a decent upgrade thats worthwhile over stock cooper spi?

Any ruff ideas on pricing in Melbourne using existing head? Has k&N filter on already.

You could ditch the low ratio diff and 13" wheels too if you really wanted, going back to a 3.44 should help with acceleration, but on the freeway the car will be revving at around 3800 rpm.

The thing is the injection cars were never designed with speed and power in mind - it was for emissions. The original 70hp cooper S (factory spec) from the 60s is quicker than a 90hp conversion rover cooper. Better ratio box, better fuel delivery system and a lighter car.

Is it possible/worthwhile to convert the car to carby without issues getting rwc in Aus/victoria?

Also, just a quick question bout these http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... S0480.html
Can I install one of these without too much trouble and upgrade the head and exhaust down the track?

Also,wouldn't I have to remove the engine to change the diff? I don't mind the 13" wheels but I do agree with some that minis look great with 10" wheels the the big guards. But at the moment its almost imposible not to scrape the bottom of the car when going to the mall with those stupid metal judder bars (kiwi) speed humps.

Strictly speaking, you aren't supposed to do that, but lots of mechanics wouldn't know the difference if you did. With the right carbies there would be a power gain.



Completely pointless doing that. You need the bigger valves if you're going to get any benefit from the rockers.



Engine out and gearbox off. If you went that far may as well rebuild the whole engine.
Putting 10" wheels wouldn't make the car any lower. Tyre size is the same.

10" rubber is 2cm less in diameter than 13" so the car will go down 1cm with no other changes.

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Rover 214 atm ....

one of these

http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/article_S ... 20B.001%26

you could easy do a cam change keeping it N/A & still get awesome power.

or bolt a blower on & keep the injection low boost you would easy get reliable 100hp & be able to actually tune it right

How do you tell the difference between spi and mpi by looking at the motor? I believe mine is Spi (japan 1998).
Bolting this on http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/article_S ... 218.001%26. I would still have to do other modifications as this trottle body wouldn't give a power increase alone right?

The power increase comes from being able to adjust the engine management system.
For plug and play, this is what you want:
http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/article_SC0127.001/Rover-Mini-SPi-Plug-and-Play-Typhoon-ECU.html?sessid=iYDkFPs2O6LiwuhDjOKFSE2D8g2Ssx3zuvVwIfawpMdLwivgWIK4wxJZvhLicS4M&shop_param=cid%3D21%26aid%3DSC0127.001%26

Though strictly it's not plug and play: you have a Jap car. The UK cars didnt have AC so that won't be in the standard mapping so you'd have to check its compatible. Next, the computer is different - its the early 2 plug box with something closer to MPI mapping than SPI, so you'd have to get it (or make it) match the base programming before you can even start the car. Neither a standard UK MPI or SPI ECU map will get a jap car to start.
If they provide direct 98 jap model computers you're fine but I haven't seen it done before. Upto 96 jap spec yes, but not after.