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 Post subject: Polishing advice
PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 9:14 pm 
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Location: Barossa Valley, SA
Guys,

i have seen a few mentions of products used for polishing in several threads but I thought I would ask for specific feedback. My mini is currently in reasonable shape with acrylic paint. i would like to make it look the best i can since I really don't want to repaint it just yet.

So what products would you guys recommended?
Where is the best place to get them?
and finally what steps would you recommend in the process? ( clay bar, type of polish hand or machine buff, waxes etc).

cheers,

CJ


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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:16 pm 
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best of searching youtube , lots of people use foam pads, u can buy most cutting compounds and polishing stuff from supercheap / repco just do ur homework on how to hold and what to look for so many people end up burning thru the paint and getting swirl marks, ur paint if its bad u can 1500 grit wet n dry it then polish it to new
have fun

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:34 pm 
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As above.

If your passing Lonsdale Paints (LP's), their really good for advice. If it's not too bad, I'd try a swirl remover compound, as that won't rip off your paint. I bought a small foam pad from LP's which spins on my polisher. Being small it is easy to control, and gets into the smaller areas.
Super Cheap buffs are cheap as..

Cheers
Alex.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:41 pm 
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haze blue 850 wrote:
As above.

If your passing Lonsdale Paints (LP's), their really good for advice. If it's not too bad, I'd try a swirl remover compound, as that won't rip off your paint. I bought a small foam pad from LP's which spins on my polisher. Being small it is easy to control, and gets into the smaller areas.
Super Cheap buffs are cheap as..

Cheers
Alex.


Thanks Alex,

Not sure I will be passing by Lonsdale soon it is a bit of a hike from the Barossa. But if I can find a reason to get down there I will.

cheers,
CJ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 2:57 am 
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Try your local smash repair shop. They will/should have plenty of experience with paint restore. A good cutting paste and buff/pad combo go along way. As a painter myself its not always easy, especially with acrylic. It has a tendency to melt and burn easily.


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 Post subject: Polish
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 9:11 am 
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All Polishes require the essential "Elbow Grease". but some are better than others.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 11:49 am 
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I have used Meguires paint restoration kit very successfully. Just follow the steps:

- wash
- clay bar
- cutting compound
- polish
- wax

I did it by hand, and it required a lot of elbow grease but I did not trust myself to not get carried away with a machine and burn the paint.

Ryan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 11:52 am 
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i quite like Maguires there paint resto pack is good value for whats in it.

for the best results take it to a detailer to do a full duco revival on it then it will make keeping the paintwork looking good really easy, not a cheap option but by far the best


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 Post subject: Re: Polish
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 1:26 pm 
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Keep in mind that anything you buy from a car store will be pretty safe. where as there is also a pro range that body shops use that can bring up brilliant results but could also strip your paint in minutes if used in correctly.

Do not use a cut and polish. Its too harsh for soft acrylics and modern clear coats. There's even a warning on the tub. All it does it create haze and swirl marks.

Convertible Mini wrote:
All Polishes require the essential "Elbow Grease". but some are better than others.


Exactly, you really need to decide how much time you want to spend on it. Time is not proportional to money spent either.

You could easily spend a full day polishing a car by hand, or you could for out for a buffer and cut down on time. A paste wax will generally give better results but a liquid wax will go on much quicker and easier.
So how much time do you want to spend.

Can you put up any pictures of your paints current condition?


My advice from products I have personally used and are available locally is below if you are so inclined.

• Good chrome polish
Im happy with mothers chrome polish to do the bulk of the work then a wadding polish to keep up the shine with minimal effort. I have used autosol which brought up some tarnished bumpers great but within a few days it went a bit hazy. not sure why but I haven't had the problem with the mothers polish.

• A clay bar: is great and brings up the surface like glass so gives a perfect base for the polish and wax to work on. but I cant justify the time so I skip this step.

• Polish: to bring up the colour, I am very happy with Autoglym resin polish especialy on metalics. I have used Mequiars colour X which came up brilliantly but didnt last and is full of silicone which you may not like.

• Wax: IMHO is the most important step. At the moment I am using Mothers liquid caranuba cleaner wax which is a polish and wax in one. Its a great one step product for polishing/waxing. But once I use up this bottle Ill try something else. The wax isn't as thick and shiny as I like and I do a dedicated polishing separately so it saves me no time. I'm thinking of trying Mothers natural caranuba paste wax or bowdens offering next.

I have got tub of Autoglym HD wax but at $140 odd dollars I save it for special occasions. Its brilliant and lasts and lasts but its not cheap.

• Polisher: After going through several cheap polishers I spent a bit more on a mothers wax attack portable polisher. Its better than the super-cheap ones but the NiMH battery life is woeful. I would go for a corded one.

An ozito polisher from burnings Ive heard good things about but I prefer a 6inch polisher as it gets into nook and cranny's easier. Use foam waffle pads at first. Solid foam or sheepskin is to hard to use and can burn the paint.

• Wheel cleaner. Currently I have meguiars all wheel cleaner. It is amazingly brilliant. It gets off grime and brake dust that used to require scrubbing.

However I have used it on some home painted wheels and it dulled the Finnish slightly with repeated use.
I havent had any problems on my unpainted cast wheels and factory holden painted alloys. It has some nasty warnings on the back so use carefully or go for a non acid cleaner and a brush. Im lazy so Ill stick with this.

I just use cheap aerosol silicone tyre black as it doesn't last with the kind of country driving I do. I will try some of the premium products eventually.

• Plastic polish: after using a plastic polish its worth investing in. I use meguairs plastic polish. Puts a brilliant shine on plastic lights and trim. Even removes that nasty yellowing on EL headlights and similar. Not essential but the results are worth it. Obviously not too usefull on a mini buts its something that a lot of people dont know about.

• Wash Im using mothers wash and wax, Im not happy with it, its not string enough to get off the bulk of stuff but its gentle on the wax, will try something else when the bottles empty.

I also follow up washing with spray wax while I chamois. extends the life of the wax. I'm using autoglym aqua wax but I have previously used meguiars quick-wax which was quite a bit cheaper with very similar results.

I also use an enkafill chamois, Dont try deerskin like the yanks say. all you are allowed to get in Australia is cow skin which is next to useless. Go synthetic.

• Interior, Havent spent much time here, Mequiars quick out is brilliant for cleaning cloth and carpets. Meguiars odour eliminator in the old yellow bottle is amazing if you can still try it, I haven't tried the new 3m stuff.
I also have turtle wax ICE vinyl care but its nothing special.
Probably worth a reminder not to use armorall or any silicone on vinyl thats exposed to the sun. i.e. everything in a car.

Meguairs leather care I haven't had much success with. Although the seats I where trying to clean where pretty far gone.

Its worth mentioning that all of these premium car care companies have money back guarantees. In this case one email later meguairs told me to return it to my place of purchase for a refund. They even contacted the store to let them know.

And thats my experience with car care.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:19 pm
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Location: Geelong , Victoria
Great write up Kirby , i will be using this as a guide when mine is at this stage .

Thanks

Cheers Bill

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Last edited by MiniBill on Sat May 11, 2013 7:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:22 pm
Posts: 780
Location: Quakers Hill
Wash:- meguiars nxt car wash
Clay meguiars quik clay kit
Plastics and vinyl:- auto glym vinyl and rubber care
Polish:- auto glym super resin polish
Wax:- mothers California gold pure carnauba wax
Metals:- auto glym metal polish
Glass:- auto glym glass polish
Paint blemishes and scratches :- meguiars scratch x2.0
Engine:- auto glym engine and machine cleaner
Tyres:- cheap crap , though recommend gels last a bit longer

I have tried a lot of different products but l am happy with the results these products produce


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:59 pm
Posts: 1125
Location: Barossa Valley, SA
Thanks to Kirby for the detailed write up, I will post a couple of pictures of the paintwork after the weekend (Mothers day stuff has me away from home). Overall I would say it was in reasonable condition, certainly not bad enough to justify a repaint immediately.

Really it is just suffering from to much time in the garage. .... I have only recently got it ready for rego (it is now registered) before health issues put a stop to all work :cry:

Thank you to all the others who have provided feedback. I will be hitting the web soon to get the needed supplies to start work.

Cheers CJ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 7:53 pm
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Location: Prison
Wax on Wax off


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 12:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 7:34 am
Posts: 950
Location: brisvages
engine bay cleaner i use old auto oil, discovered this when i blu a transmission cooler and ended up with a sparkling new engine bay after washing of the oil

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 Post subject: Re: Polish
PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
kirby wrote:
Keep in mind that anything you buy from a car store will be pretty safe. where as there is also a pro range that body shops use that can bring up brilliant results but could also strip your paint in minutes if used in correctly.

Do not use a cut and polish. Its too harsh for soft acrylics and modern clear coats. There's even a warning on the tub. All it does it create haze and swirl marks.

Convertible Mini wrote:
All Polishes require the essential "Elbow Grease". but some are better than others.


Exactly, you really need to decide how much time you want to spend on it. Time is not proportional to money spent either.

You could easily spend a full day polishing a car by hand, or you could for out for a buffer and cut down on time. A paste wax will generally give better results but a liquid wax will go on much quicker and easier.
So how much time do you want to spend.

Can you put up any pictures of your paints current condition?


My advice from products I have personally used and are available locally is below if you are so inclined.

• Good chrome polish
Im happy with mothers chrome polish to do the bulk of the work then a wadding polish to keep up the shine with minimal effort. I have used autosol which brought up some tarnished bumpers great but within a few days it went a bit hazy. not sure why but I haven't had the problem with the mothers polish.

• A clay bar: is great and brings up the surface like glass so gives a perfect base for the polish and wax to work on. but I cant justify the time so I skip this step.

• Polish: to bring up the colour, I am very happy with Autoglym resin polish especialy on metalics. I have used Mequiars colour X which came up brilliantly but didnt last and is full of silicone which you may not like.

• Wax: IMHO is the most important step. At the moment I am using Mothers liquid caranuba cleaner wax which is a polish and wax in one. Its a great one step product for polishing/waxing. But once I use up this bottle Ill try something else. The wax isn't as thick and shiny as I like and I do a dedicated polishing separately so it saves me no time. I'm thinking of trying Mothers natural caranuba paste wax or bowdens offering next.

I have got tub of Autoglym HD wax but at $140 odd dollars I save it for special occasions. Its brilliant and lasts and lasts but its not cheap.

• Polisher: After going through several cheap polishers I spent a bit more on a mothers wax attack portable polisher. Its better than the super-cheap ones but the NiMH battery life is woeful. I would go for a corded one.

An ozito polisher from burnings Ive heard good things about but I prefer a 6inch polisher as it gets into nook and cranny's easier. Use foam waffle pads at first. Solid foam or sheepskin is to hard to use and can burn the paint.

• Wheel cleaner. Currently I have meguiars all wheel cleaner. It is amazingly brilliant. It gets off grime and brake dust that used to require scrubbing.

However I have used it on some home painted wheels and it dulled the Finnish slightly with repeated use.
I havent had any problems on my unpainted cast wheels and factory holden painted alloys. It has some nasty warnings on the back so use carefully or go for a non acid cleaner and a brush. Im lazy so Ill stick with this.

I just use cheap aerosol silicone tyre black as it doesn't last with the kind of country driving I do. I will try some of the premium products eventually.

• Plastic polish: after using a plastic polish its worth investing in. I use meguairs plastic polish. Puts a brilliant shine on plastic lights and trim. Even removes that nasty yellowing on EL headlights and similar. Not essential but the results are worth it. Obviously not too usefull on a mini buts its something that a lot of people dont know about.

• Wash Im using mothers wash and wax, Im not happy with it, its not string enough to get off the bulk of stuff but its gentle on the wax, will try something else when the bottles empty.

I also follow up washing with spray wax while I chamois. extends the life of the wax. I'm using autoglym aqua wax but I have previously used meguiars quick-wax which was quite a bit cheaper with very similar results.

I also use an enkafill chamois, Dont try deerskin like the yanks say. all you are allowed to get in Australia is cow skin which is next to useless. Go synthetic.

• Interior, Havent spent much time here, Mequiars quick out is brilliant for cleaning cloth and carpets. Meguiars odour eliminator in the old yellow bottle is amazing if you can still try it, I haven't tried the new 3m stuff.
I also have turtle wax ICE vinyl care but its nothing special.
Probably worth a reminder not to use armorall or any silicone on vinyl thats exposed to the sun. i.e. everything in a car.

Meguirs leather care I haven't had much success with. Although the seats I where trying to clean where pretty far gone.

Its worth mentioning that all of these premium car care companies have money back guarantees. In this case one email later meguairs told me to return it to my place of purchase for a refund. They even contacted the store to let them know.

And thats my experience with car care.


Ahhhh,,,, not quite enough information here,
can you type it all with a bit more please

:-)

well done,,, you da man!!!

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