Ok so heres my spot of bother,

It appears for the moment i will be keeping my blue mini and with this being the case I would like to be driving it alot again.

HOWEVER the motor isnt going to like it. She's getting worn now and I know if I drive it as much as I will need to, it will only be a matter of time before something nasty happens.

So my request for opinions relates to my next step, taking into account difficulty (time related) cost, reliability and maybe even just general awesomeness

Some options are,
- Use a "rebuilt" 850 I have thats been sitting a while (never used, complete with cast manifold and rubber unis)

- Buy a secondhand gc running powerplant

[if you have a rough/educated value for either of the following please let me know]

- Have current 1100 Rebuilt (gbox should be ok but diff is probably pretty worn aswel)

- Buy a shop prepared Rebuilt powerplant - sporty 1100/1275/+

BUT There's a catch! Not that I intend to, but this mini may get sold in the future so resale value should be kept in mind, ei Dont want to spend the big bucks on the new powerplant if its not going to ad a similar value to the car....

I am (as some may have seen already) chasing a late rover aswell which would leave me with three minis.
If I dont take the 'awesome' path with this mini I might find it pointless to continue paying to keep it on the road as just another full reg mini.

Though the reason I would consider such a transplant, is because the car has good "toy or track" potential, being that it has all the upgrade parts and not much originality. If i was to take this route it would increase the desire to keep it tenfold.

If your still reading.... What are your thoughts?

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

keep the 850. if its matching . use that

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Couple side notes,

I do have a few other cars that aren't minis

The 850 I have doesn't match either of my shells

And the 1100 has been tagged with the original number

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

I can't speak from experience but I'd imagine a 848cc would be underpowered for a daily driver.
IMO a worked 1100 (big overbore, mild cam, head work) would be fun but the money outlaid would not be represented if sold , a stock 1275 would be cheaper and give the same (maybe less) power compared to the mad 1100.
Also a 1275 will add decent value to the mini.....but you also will need to up grade to disc brakes if you don't have them already.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

The car has 7.5's, hi-lo's, cooper (wider?) wheels, twin tanks, 130 speedo and I can even throw my booster back in.

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

could always drop another donk in it, rebuild the 850 and put back in, depends on your budget really, theres a rebuilt 1100 in SA for $5500 which seems rather expensive since an engine from mini & moke world in NSW for the same money and comes with a rebuilt gearbox attached as well which would be my pick if buying a new engine http://www.miniandmokeworld.com.au/webs ... oryID=1221

Rebuild the 1098, parts are cheap, just farm the block & crank machining out then reassemble it yourself.
It ain't rocket science, and you're not paying someone $90 or more an hour to do it. So you save a bunch of $$$$.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would like to do that Doc, I know the engine is a pretty good base. I mean I reckon I could still pull over 80mph in its current state

But time is the killer

I've already got too many projects on the go and I just won't get it done

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

If that's the motor I'm thinking it is...... The one at Blair athol motor... That is a 1275 and yeah no gbox bit pricey though

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.... 1977 Leyland Mini S .....
.... 1972 Leyland Clubman .....
.... 1973 Leyland Mini Van ....

ah yes, i sorta skim read it browsing through gumtree 1100s is what stuck in my mind in the title then saw the price :-O for an engine with no accessories or gbox.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kilburn/ ... 1017969890

There is one on eBay atm for 3K in vic

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.... 1977 Leyland Mini S .....
.... 1972 Leyland Clubman .....
.... 1973 Leyland Mini Van ....

i would also like to know where to start with a worn out 1100 engine?

during its last days before being taken off the road it was very smokey, but only under mild to hard acceleration, not ALL the time.

I have had heads reconditioned in other cars in the past and that's all it took. would it be the same case for a mini engine?

If it's smoky under hard acceleration it's usually the rings are shot.
But in a long stroke motor like an A series, by the time the rings are knackered the bores are worn too.

So, to do the bottom end properly:
Rebore & hone block to suit next oversize (or bigger) pistons.
Measure crank, if worn more than 1/2 a thou get it reground to next undersize bearings. Fit new thrust washers also.
Check cam for worn lobes, if you want a sporty one, now is the time to regrind it.
Fit new cam followers, beware some of the cheapy ones are rubbish now.
Fit a NEW oil pump.
Fit new timing chain and sprockets, Jwis is THE best chain (simplex or duplex). Most cheap chain is rubbish, it bends sideways = worn already.

Then look at the head: check valves, guides, seats etc. If you want more power, now is the time to port it and fit bigger valves. And unleaded seats unless you want to run Flashlube [or Valvemaster (yeeech)] additive.
Check the rockers and shaft for wear, usually the shaft wears before the rocker bushes do. New shafts are cheap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

apart from labour, how much would all those parts cost? ^^
I can go onto minisport and check each part but im sure you can throw me an approx number:)

Ballpark figures for the block-
Pistons $200/set,
bearings & thrusts $75/set,
GOOD cam followers $60/set,
Rebore & hone $150 total,
regrind crank $200
New oil pump $50
Cam regrind $150 up
Jwis duplex timing chain $60

YMMY of course...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.