I am stripping and rebuilding my disk brake setup. Just wondering what I should be replacing. Brake hoses and new pads are a must but what about the pistons? is there a kit you put in them?
Thanks

Yes there's a seal kit of fluid seals and dust seals.
Wire brush the pistons when they're out. If any flaking chrome/rust on the outside, bin them and buy new. You can get S/S ones but chromed ones (like original) are cheaper and will last over 20 years anyway.
If you split the calipers always replace the little seal between them. It's not in the seal kit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i got ss pistons from burt brothers on fairfield rd fairfield 3 years ago for about 15 bucks each
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Chrome ones (stock) are $15.97 ea
S/S ones are $27.45 ea.
At Karcraft.

S/S ones are Bling! (can't see 'em though!) but the chromed ones are harder surface. Your choice. I run a set of each in out 2 cars...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Got all the gear from Karcraft during the week. I replaced my ball joints according to the manual. Should I be able to move the ball pin by hand once they ar all tightened up? because mine are solid!

Can someone give me a laymans guide to fitting them. And if your not busy include a run down on replacing the pistons as well. Thanks

If your balljoints are solid, you need to add more shims. When it's right, you should just be able to move them by hand with the big cap nut done up to 72lb/ft. Don't forget to do up the lock tabs...

To get the caliper pistons out, take caliper off hub, put a clamp on the inner one and apply low pressure air to eject the outer piston.
The inner one can be removed with a pin punch through the hose fitting hole.
Some people (masochists) fit seal kits without splitting the caliper. I always split them, it makes it so much easier.
Remove the old dust seal and fluid seal using a small screwdriver, don't scratch the bore or the seal groove.
Wash it all out with brake fluid.
Pop the new fluid seal in with your fingers, lube it with brake fluid.
Fit the piston in leaving 8mm sticking out.
Fit the dust seal into the metal ring and carefully push it into the groove, keeping it square. I use a suitable socket to drift it in. Don't hit it hard...!
Push the piston in flush.
Repeat above steps for other 3 caliper halves.
Replace the fluid seal between halves with a new one, and bolt back together.
There! easy, wasn't it...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc

bromley i can attest to it being that easy just one thing dont do what i did when you put em back on the car ... put the right on the left and the left on the right you wont get them to pump up
it took me a while trying to work out what was wrong then i seen it the bleed nipples were at the bottom nothing but air above doh
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Yea, it wasn't a hard job at all. The problem is that I pressed one of the metal seals in awkward and its bend up slightly on one side. It doesn't pop out or move because of my hack job with a screwdriver to get it in.

Is this going to be alright - or should I go and spend more money on another kit?