Ausmini
It is currently Fri Aug 08, 2025 3:23 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:16 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:26 pm
Posts: 593
Location: Howrah, Tasmania
Hey guys, currently looking at an 1100s short motor and have a few questions!
I've never before looked at an 1100s in detail so:
What does the engine number start with? To ensure it is what the guy reckons it is.
And he doesn't no if it was auto or manual so is there any way of telling if it was manual?
Anything else I should look out for when inspecting it?
It's a 4 hour drive away so want to make sure it's worth it!

Cheers, Rhys

_________________
2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:27 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 06, 2013 3:44 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Melbourne
My cars got one, engine number starts with 12YDT. I think 12YD was another prefix with a different diff, but I guess there is no box included.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:33 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed May 22, 2013 9:08 pm
Posts: 114
Location: Cockatoo, Victoria
Hi Rhys, just had a bit of a look around, as far as I can see, the 1100s motors should start with 12 , Y (aussie built) , D (if it had a 4.1 final drive instead of standard 3.765) TA for manual or just A for auto / H (for high compression then the serial number. so a 1100S auto with standard drive should be 12Y/A/Hxxxxx

got this from http://www.elevenhundred.com/enginenum.php

Hope it helps

_________________
Current 1970 Mini K - full resto happening - finished and on the road since 10/2020 :)
2001 Falcon AUII XL 1 Tonne styleside ute

Mini History
1963 - 850 - wish I still had it
1965 - 850 - was an unfinished project, gone
1972 - Clubbie


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:40 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
if it`s an automatic engine then it won`t have a dip-stick hole (unless someone drilled it allready to suit a manual conversion application) & it will have a deaper oil-pump recess than a manual block,,, unless someone has already fitted an oil-pump-adaptor-plate to convert it to manual

there are also a other items like the oil-pressure limit valve "seat" is different (2x holes in/across it) but you won`t be able to see that cause it`s stuck deep in the oil gallery

& the oil gallery leading to the limit valve will not be drilled through to the oil pump area yet (if it`s still an auto block) but would be drilled through if it`s either a manual block or an already converted auto block

whew!!! too much info my brain is going to explode :-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:41 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:35 pm
Posts: 367
Location: Adelaide, SA
The dipstick hole is in a different spot on the auto.
The dipstick on an auto is near the flywheel on a manual so the block casting may not have a hole through it (just a lump where the manual dipstick goes). Also the oil filter for an auto comes from a different spot on the block.

_________________
Justin


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:55 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
jubblies wrote:
The dipstick hole is in a different spot on the auto.
The dipstick on an auto is near the flywheel on a manual so the block casting may not have a hole through it (just a lump where the manual dipstick goes). Also the oil filter for an auto comes from a different spot on the block.

Auto's block has NO dipstick hole, it is in the gearbox casing instead.
Auto's filter is NOT on the block, it is on top of the gearbox at front. Oil goes from pump down to the gearbox through a pipe, is filtered, then comes UP the banjo pipe and into the block (reverse flow to what a manual has).

Early 1100S auto block is 12H/119/H (it's a UK block). These did have a dipstick hole (plugged) where a manual one is.

The last 1275 autos were in the Morris 1300 auto, prefix is 12YE/A/H.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:04 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:35 pm
Posts: 367
Location: Adelaide, SA
drmini in aust wrote:
jubblies wrote:
The dipstick hole is in a different spot on the auto.
The dipstick on an auto is near the flywheel on a manual so the block casting may not have a hole through it (just a lump where the manual dipstick goes). Also the oil filter for an auto comes from a different spot on the block.

Auto's block has NO dipstick hole, it is in the gearbox casing instead.
Auto's filter is NOT on the block, it is on top of the gearbox at front. Oil goes from pump down to the gearbox through a pipe, is filtered, then comes UP the banjo pipe and into the block (reverse flow to what a manual has).

Kind of what I was getting at Doc, these couple of things are different and to look out for them

_________________
Justin


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:21 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I will just add that to put an auto block on a manual box requires some mods to the oilways, also an oil pump spacer and plug the cross hole in the relief valve seat, as Matt said above.
See my sticky thread at top of the mods forum.
Note- my pics are gone from there (as I changed ISP) but I can email them if you want.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 10:06 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 7:19 pm
Posts: 5370
Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
General question;
How do you tell if it has a lrg journal crank from outside the engine?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 10:15 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Kennomini wrote:
General question;
How do you tell if it has a lrg journal crank from outside the engine?

The change point to large journal was at engine # 12YD/Ta/H10487-10488.
But to be sure, have a look at the big end caps through the fuel pump hole. Big square lumps on em = large journal crank.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 96 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.