All of a sudden I keep blowing the bottom fuse - the one with all the white wires (3) at the grille side and 3 green wires going to the voltage regulator on the windscreen side of the fuse box.

A quick recap.....

I got all the wiring replaced and checked by Convertible Mini (good job - it was all working fine). He put in new relays for the headlights and electronic ignition. Just so there is no confusion, he has not created this issue.

A year or so later, I all of a sudden started blowing the bottom fuse - the temp guage/fuel guage and indicators would stop working. I swapped one green wire from the voltage regulator (leaving the other terminal with two green wires alone) to another terminal and it solved the problem for a number of months.

Three weeks ago, it blew the same fuse - and no indicators, fuel/temp or brake lights. I bought a new voltage regulator, that didn't help (unless I put the wires in the wrong spot - it looked a bit different to the existing one and one side had female plugs where as mine has all male plugs). The last time I was advised by the good people here to put one white wire on at a time until the fuse blew. I have done that and found the culprit. When I left it disconnected, the fuse wouldn't blow but the car would just crank and not start.

I suspect it is the ignition coil wire, as it is all white, but that is as far as my logic/ability goes. I have upgraded to Wipac lights but thought the separate fuses (EDIT: Sorry, I meant relays) would be adequate for the job, and the car was running fien with them in for a few months, and the lights still work even with the blown fuse.

My usual operating procedure would be to call on Tony again, but forced unemployment rules that option out. Any suggestions on how to fix it? Where do I start looking?

Thanks for looking

disconnect everything (inc Battery) and but one end of you multimeter on the earth, the other on the fuse box. slowly start connecting each wire up, when you get continuity that's your faulty cable, and see where its earthing out, and what its connected to

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Cool, just to confirm, I take off all the wires and then connect battery first, then each wire from one side and then the other side? When I get a spike in the reading that's the culprit?

Thanks for the advice

Take it back Tony
Not that I am saying it is his fault
He will sort it out for you before it turns into a total burn out
sometimes you just need a professional
I am sure you can talk to him and come to some sort of deal

I had a similar problem, blowing the fuse for temp & fuel gauges/brake lights etc. On my car i found that the 2 wires that went to the brake pressure sensor were intermittently touching and shorting out thereby blowing the fuse. Removed the wires, added some better insulating sleeves over the connectors and have never blown a fuse since. Worth a look, 10 minutes to fix

First time I read this. I think the best thing to do is to bring the car back to me so we can sort out what the problem is being cause by. I don't see any problem with that. I am sure I can find a problem if one exists. But you know me, I don't like guessing or telling people what to look for as most times it creates confusion and creates other problems. Give me a call and drop the car over.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Ok, I have isolated the fault to one green wire on the fuse box (closest to the firewall side). I want to check my logic/diagnostic fault finding here before proceeding....

I now have indicators but no fuel, temp gauge or brake lights. So, I've looked at a wiring diagram which says the green wire is either connected to the stop lamp switch, the flasher unit or the instrument regulator.

As the indicators work, we can rule the flasher unit out?

So I disconnected the stop lamp switch - still blowing fuses - so that means its not that, yeah?

So that means it is the instrument regulator?

But, if it is only one component, why are two things (brake lights and fuel/temp) not working?

Thanks Tony for your help through PM's, I do appreciate it.

Cheers

Clovus

And when I disconnect all the green wires from the instrument volt regulator it still blows the fuse?

can you tell us what make, model and year Mini is.
is the wiring also standard

Another thing to try is put a test light (Bulb type) across where the fuse goes The test light should light up and increase in brightness once you find the short

do it in intervals to ensure the wring does not get too hot.

I would need to know model etc to offer any more suggestions

EDIT

there are three circuits on that fuse, rear lights, gauges and heater, indicators, and 4 green wires.

i would look at the flasher regulator disconnect the green wire at the fasher end and first then the fuse box and see if that makes a difference with a fuse

if its stops blowing then change the flasher unit

then repeat the process for the circuits if thats not it







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It's a 1966 Morris, I put in a new mk 2 loom from minispares 18 months ago. The only alterations from std are wipac headlights (with relays) separate temp and oil pressure gauge a la mini deluxe ( to suit the loom).

I just re-read your notes and I cannot see how the indicators are working if the fuse is blowing its all fused on the same circuit


Post a picture of the fuse box.

Om will take a picture tomorrow.

To clarify, if I leave all the green wires on, I have no indicators, temp/fuel gauges or brake lights. If I leave only the suspect one green wire off, the indicators work, but not the gauges or brake lights.

Here is the photo of the fuse box.



The two other green wires are somewhat obscured in the photo, but you can see the one I disconnected. With that wire disconnected the fuse doesn't blow. There is another wire attached to the terminals = a pink one which goes to the relay on the passenger side headlight. If I disconnect that wire and leave all three green wires attached to the fuse, it still blows. Take the one green wire away and it doesn't.

I am using 30amp fuses too, same as what was on there originally.

Sorry for the large picture, I've cut it down in photobucket.

Another trick is to disconnect all of the green wires at the source end and reconnect one at a time if it blows then you know which circuit is blowing. Take a nice and long piece of wire put a spade connector on each end connect one end to the fuse box then connect the end that's blowing. All circuits should now work.

If it still blows then the component you are connecting it to is buggered or the short is after the green wire connection.

EDIT
the other possibility is you have a short across the two green wires that power the brake lights and gauges as the should be on separate circuits and should be able to be isolated.

Good luck

FIXED!!

Thanks, kiwi your suggestions have got it working. I took a new wire from the fuse to the instrument voltage regulator and it is all working.

I've done a celebratory dance ini the front yard already ( neighbours already think I'm weird for playing around with an old car) and am just about to take the car for a spin.

Very happy at the moment. Hopefully it all holds steady until I get a job and then I can take it to Tony for a check over.