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 Post subject: Ballast Resistor Bypass
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 1:43 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:49 am
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
Hi All,

It's getting quite cold this winter and my clubby is getting harder to start in the morning. I'm currently running a GT40R coil with a ballast resistor. Not taking full advantage of this setup as I'm not bypassing the resistor during cranking.

So, how does one correctly wire this bypass to feed the coil the full 12v during cranking?

I'm thinking the red-white wire between the solenoid and ignition will be 12V during cranking. Connecting the + side of the coil to the same terminal on the solenoid should bypass the resistor. When running normally however, doesn't this mean the coil is feeding ~8V to the solenoid? Is that enough to trigger the solenoid to crank the starter motor? Do I need a diode or something?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 2:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Yes that will work, I did it on a motor a while ago, you need a blocking diode in the circuit as said.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:51 pm 
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848cc
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Location: West Lakes | S.A. | or in the RAA van!
A diode will induce a voltage drop, best to wire a relay from the start wire switching full battery current or a wire from the output of the start solenoid to the positive coil.

Ash.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:53 pm 
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848cc
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Location: West Lakes | S.A. | or in the RAA van!
From the solenoid switching a relay I meant.

Ash.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 9:11 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
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Or just buy a GT40????

But i'm not getting the point....

Cheers, Ian


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 9:20 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
m1100s wrote:
A diode will induce a voltage drop, best to wire a relay from the start wire switching full battery current or a wire from the output of the start solenoid to the positive coil.

Ash.

I didn't find any voltage drop when I did mine. You need to size it big enough.


@syahrr01,
I still have the diode & lead here somewhere (I think I know where), yours for postage if you want it.
I sold the 45D dizzy + electronic module on, replaced it with a Nissan Pulsar one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
You could change the dizzy out to a higher voltage unit like at the link below. These are rated for your GT40R coil all day everyday, not just at start up.

You get the benefit of a high energy output all day everyday, and a new dizzy. Convertible Mini sells these locally in Oz.

http://www.simonbbc.com/distributors/4c ... h-powermax

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:28 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:26 pm
Posts: 817
Location: Adelaide
I ditched the GT40R and the ballast resistor and fitted a MSD Blaster2 coil with a full 12 volts to it. Noticeable improvement in starting and pick up over the Bosch set up. I got it from here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MSD-8202-Ign ... 23130b7cbb

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