I’m hoping that this is a relatively easy fix. I’ve recently completed a full rebuild of the engine (including the flywheel and a new clutch) and installed it back in the car. When I start the engine it I can’t engage any gears, when the motor is stopped they drop in and out without any issues.

I have installed a new MC and have bled the slave cylinder. These have made zero difference making me now think that it is a clutch throw issue. Is there something else I'm overlooking? Did/ do I need to bleed the MC?

What’s the process for adjusting the clutch throw? I’ve read the Service manual, but it hasn’t really explained the process to a point where I’m comfortable. I'm sure it's simple, but I don't really want to bugger things up.

Thanks,
James.

ok,,, so,,, the alloy clutch cover (Wok) has a small (1/4") bolt (& lock nut) sitting about half-way down the arm sticking out of the Wok right???

If you pull the arm away from that bolt (opposing the spring pressure),,, taking up any """free-Play""" (that`s all we want to do at this stage it to see how much free-play there is between that bolt & the ar4m when you pull the arm away a bit yeah??? so how much clearance/ free-play is there???

go do that & tell us ok???

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I recently had to replace the thrust bearing and when I adjusted the nuts on the shaft to the bearing and the stopping bolt 1/2 up from the centre of the "wok" I couldn't engage without grating. That was adjusted to the Gregories.

I moved two nuts on the shaft (in the centre of the wok) out slightly more and clutch is now excellent. If you changed your thrust bearing while doing a full rebuild - you may need to adjust it slightly.

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I tried about everything with mine, new this, new that, adjustment etc.
The eventual fix was about 1mm of spacer washers between thrust bearing and where it seats on the plunger

yeah there are many reasons why a mini clutch doesn`t deliver what it aught too,,, & it`s all well & good everyone telling their story about their clutch issues & that`s all good,,, but it would be good if we got this guy to help diagnose the problem correctly for himself & to do that we need to start with the free-play at the stopper bolt

then we can go forward from there to diagnose it properly

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I've been out to the garage to look at the clearance. The distance between the arm and te bolt is 12 thou.

James.

Pretty much spot on. I think they recommend 20 thou but 10 is fine.

cheers, Ian

Make sure the clutch throw stop nuts aren't stopping the throw short. Unlikely, but would be nice easy fix.
Check that your lever arm has not been bent to try to get more throw and the slave cylinder rod has not been extended. Mine had both and for some reason it worked better with standard ones fitted. Not great but better.
Wear in the Clevis pins, MC clevis pin holes, ball end of lever and where it runs in the plunger can all decrease the total throw you get. Check and renew if necessary.
It is a long lever mechanism to achieve a relatively short amount of movement at the thrust bearing, that's one reason why the 1mm of spacer washers behind the bearing made such a big difference for me

yes any wear "thoughout" the mechanical system does tend to make some of the travel simply take-up the play instead of moving the clutch so try to re-new any worn bits as best you can

also (& i know this is difficult to check with-out removing it) check the master cyl is the correct one,,, so many these days are the .7 type,,, however,,, the .75 master cyl works much better & gives us more travel at the slave.

& yes my dad wrote an article to Leyland Aust (back in the day) regarding the fitting of the flat washer behind the throw-out bearing & they implimented it & sent out a letter to all the dealers suggesting this be fitted.

But an easy check is the arm,.,,rip it out & have a look at the bottom of it,,, the ball on the end should be a ball shape,,, not half a ball,,, the plunger that it fits into (or t/out carrier) can also be worn,,, these days nearly all of them are worn,,, not like the old days where these carriers were hard as rock & you would wear out 3 or 4 arms before you need to replace a carrier,,, now-days theyre almost all worn out & the new ones are simply not as hard

& yes while you have the arm out, you could almost bet that the clevis pins are also worn

re-new what you can see is worn,,, check the arm & carrier (they`re easy),,, but the master cyl is often a culprit """as well"""... & as much as i know it may seem a lot of work to do,,, i still reccomend, or suggest that you check it out,,, a .7 master cyl does not work anywhere near as well as a .75

let us know how you go

No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Hi all,
Thanks for the tips, all appeares to be good now.
On the weekend I went back to square one.
1. I inspected the clevis pins for wear - all were ok.
2. I re-bled the system.
3. I then backed off the nuts at the rear of the wok by one full turn each.

I restarted the engine and I was able to engage the gears without any issues.

Regards,
James.