I've got a number of synchros here from old boxes I have pulled down. The question is, I have a three different varieties, and I want to know which ones are the ones to be backed and reused.

Can anyone tell me the good ones to machine from the image below? I figured the left over witness marks from manufacturing might give it away.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick you can do all those, but the strongest ones are the ones in the middle with the M or W marks in them. These were forged, latest cheapo ones sold now are powder metal/rubbish and can break.
If you need to buy new, the MSC comp ones are dearer but stronger.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Kevin,

There's nothing lost in machining the originals right? Makes them like new? if there's any question of them being lesser than ones I can buy new (like the MS Competition synchros) then I'll throw down for the better set. Is this the case?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

No downside to machining .020" off the face (facing gear) of the originals. It just gives more synchro life.
But, unless there is still at least .020" gap there now, go buy new comp ones. eg. if they are touching the gear face already, they have had it- so toss them out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... ssic/baulk ring.aspx|Back to search

Out of Stock

Does Karcraft sell the comp ones?

Use The two second from the right, IMO they are the best far

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