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| Dizzy for a 1380 https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=82237 |
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| Author: | 1380 K [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 6:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dizzy for a 1380 |
What's a good dizzy for a worked 1380 motor. Currently has a 43d4 with points in it. No idea if this is up to the job or not. Been looking at maybe getting one for MED in England http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalogue/ancillaries/distributors-ign/electronic-distributors Any other suggestions ? |
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| Author: | slide [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:04 pm ] |
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Scorcher dissy from Performance Ignitions in Melbourne, they'll do a custom advance curve to suite your engine specs, uses Bosch parts, very effective and reliable. I run it with an MSD Blaster 2 coil and Accel leads. |
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| Author: | FNQ [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:14 pm ] |
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No real experience with many electronic dizzies but the one in your link is just one of the ALdon ones - ( which i have heard good reports of) - you might get cheaper direct. Have heard scorchers are very good , but expensive. I am sure Convertible mini does components and whole dizzies, as well. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:39 pm ] |
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A modified Nissan Pulsar dizzy works for me, I've taken out the ausmini dyno day bigblock trophy twice now. I bought a Pertronix II electronic dizzy once, but the advance curve was nowhere near what my motor needed. So, the Pulsar went back in. |
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| Author: | 1380 K [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:42 pm ] |
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How would I know what advance curve I need? |
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| Author: | m1100s [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:12 pm ] |
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I swear by Megajolt, totally programmable & easy to set up. Cheers, Ash. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:51 pm ] |
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1380 K wrote: How would I know what advance curve I need?
Put the engine specs up, and we can give you a fair idea. But I'll stick my neck out here by saying a stock Cooper S dizzy's curve is useless in a 1275 or bigger motor with modified cam, high compression and running 98 unleaded. |
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| Author: | 1380 K [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:58 pm ] |
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1380cc 1100s motor balanced. Re13 cam Omega pistons Some what stock head with modified (heard someone call it bathtubed) combustion chamber. Soon to be a modified large valved head by graham russell 1.5 rockers Med ultralight flywheel Running 10.7:1 compression |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 9:14 pm ] |
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Basically to start with you want a 9°-10° advance plate in the dizzy, set @ 10-12° static advance, and it will give you 30° total advance at crank; select or modify springs for the advance to be all in by 3500-4000rpm. That's how I set the 1412 stroker up (RE13 cam, 1.5 rockers) and it works great. It made 113lb/ft torque @ 4500 and 113.6HP @ 6500 on GR's engine dyno, with a single HS6 on an RE7 manifold. Set the timing @4000 rpm when advance has peaked, I use a dialback timing light for this. Max advance is way more important than static advance is. Then stick it on a dyno and let the operator fiddle with advance at different rpm. You can then change springs if you have any more suitable. I'm running a bathtubbed head on the 1360, they need a LOT more advance. I use same dizzy advance specs but it's set at 20° static advance and 38° total. DO NOT try this much advance with a stock chamber shaped head or you will burn pistons. [edit] 1412 performance details added |
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| Author: | mickmini [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 9:41 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: Basically to start with you want a 9°-10° advance plate in the dizzy, set @ 10-12° static advance, and it will give you 30° total advance at crank; select or modify springs for the advance to be all in by 3500-4000rpm.
That's how I set the 1412 stroker up (RE13 cam, 1.5 rockers) and it works great. It made 113lb/ft torque and 113.6HP on GR's engine dyno, with a single HS6. Set the timing @4000 rpm when advance has peaked, I use a dialback timing light for this. Max advance is way more important than static advance is. Then stick it on a dyno and let the operator fiddle with advance at different rpm. You can then change springs if you have any more suitable. my 1411cc is similar to this, started with a stock 43D4 and twiddled it until it worked with the cam (different to Kevs), comp and head mods. Max advance at 30deg, but from memory is at 3000 rpm not 4000. I should start it up and annoy the neighbours to check. cheers michael |
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| Author: | 1380 K [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 9:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Okay so I never done any work to a distributor so I might have to do a bit of homework. Looking at your "how to fit a pulsar dizzy to your mini" how close do they come to your recommended stats for my engine? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 10:52 pm ] |
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1380 K wrote: Okay so I never done any work to a distributor so I might have to do a bit of homework. Looking at your "how to fit a pulsar dizzy to your mini" how close do they come to your recommended stats for my engine?
If you follow my mods on how to shorten the advance slots (near the end of the thread) it will be pretty right. I did my 2 dizzys the same, one for the 1360 and another for the 1412. Do not just throw a stock Pulsar on there, they have too much centrifugal advance; if you set one to give 30° total advance you end up with 0° static advance and NO low down torque. You could also just recurve the Lucas dizzy you have... if you find someone with a dizzy machine. |
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| Author: | Lillee [ Sun Jul 28, 2013 11:06 pm ] |
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8 Years later my Pulsar dissy still going strong... But if I had to redo it I'd go megajolt |
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| Author: | Bennoz [ Mon Jul 29, 2013 7:22 am ] |
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I'm using the old school trick in my 1400cc of having an old Datsun 200B dizzy cut & shut to suit. All done by Scorcher in Melbourne, they also did the points, weights & curve all based on my cam specs that I sent them. Made 90hp on the dyno. The other benefit of that Datsun dizzy, it doesn't suffer the old water problem if you hit a big puddle. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Jul 29, 2013 8:36 am ] |
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People have used early Honda Civic or 1600 Subaru dizzys too (made by Hitachi, as are the Pulsar ones) but they take more work to make fit. The Pulsar D4R83 or 85 drops straight into an A or A+ series, once you trim the mounting flange and change the drive dog to suit. |
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