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Brakes https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=82438 |
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Author: | 123grosso [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:26 pm ] |
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Sorry, cant help you with the new drums but from what i have been told, just get discs at the front. Even if it costs a bit more the brakes is somewhere you wouldn't want to compromise. |
Author: | michaelb [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:57 pm ] |
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Probably cost about $300 in parts to replace drum brake parts, front and rear. And $1000+ to put disk brakes on front plus cost for rear drum parts, which will need changing if you do disks |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:01 pm ] |
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New (Italian) drums here in Oz now are only ~$75/pr + GST. New brake shoes here are $20 or $30 a front or rear set, I bet it would cost you more than this to get your drums machined out and oversize bonded shoes supplied like we all used to. |
Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:24 pm ] |
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michaelb wrote: Probably cost about $300 in parts to replace drum brake parts, front and rear. And $1000+ to put disk brakes on front plus cost for rear drum parts, which will need changing if you do disks Thanks for all the replies . Thanks michael the cost is quite a lot " for me at least " drmini in aust wrote: New (Italian) drums here in Oz now are only ~$75/pr + GST.
New brake shoes here are $20 or $30 a front or rear set, I bet it would cost you more than this to get your drums machined out and oversize bonded shoes supplied like we all used to. Thanks Doc thats more my price range , are these from Karcraft ? Also any way to test the brake wheel cylinders ? from looking at the Karcraft price list i cant work out which parts i need " cant tell whats for a morris mini or my leyland mini " still a newbie at this ![]() Thanks in advance Bill Edit : Forgot to ask is it ok to place the hub assembly in a petrol bath or will that stuff the seals/rubbers ? |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:33 pm ] |
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Yes Bill these were from Karcraft, I bought a pair and some new shoes there recently. If the pistons come out easy and the bores are not corroded a set of seals will fix it . But... New front wheel cylinders are cheap, note there are 2 sizes: 15/16" and 1.0". Make sure all 4 are the same bore and there are 2x LH and 2x RH. |
Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:03 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: Yes Bill these were from Karcraft, I bought a pair and some new shoes there recently.
If the pistons come out easy and the bores are not corroded a set of seals will fix it . But... New front wheel cylinders are cheap, note there are 2 sizes: 15/16" and 1.0". Make sure all 4 are the same bore and there are 2x LH and 2x RH. Thanks again doc i will get the whole kit & Kaboole , drums , shoes , cylinders , springs etc. Do i have to get the cylinder size i currently have ? or just 4 of either 15/16" and 1.0" ? Cheers Bill |
Author: | simon k [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:20 pm ] |
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MiniBill wrote: Do i have to get the cylinder size i currently have ? or just 4 of either 15/16" and 1.0" ?
Cheers Bill no, just 4 of either size, so long as they're all the same |
Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:26 pm ] |
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simon k wrote: MiniBill wrote: Do i have to get the cylinder size i currently have ? or just 4 of either 15/16" and 1.0" ? Cheers Bill no, just 4 of either size, so long as they're all the same Thanks Simon much appreciated " as money is tight i just dont want to make silly mistakes " So say 4 x1.0 for the front and do i need 2x1.0"" ones for the rear ?. Cheers Bill |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:17 pm ] |
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Rears should be 3/4" on a Mini with 2xLS front brakes. But if you are going to fit front discs buy 5/8" S ones instead. [edit] re your Q about washing the parts I would use metho instead. Petrol etc will bugger the rubbers unless all removed. Use rubber grease when assembling. |
Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:30 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: Rears should be 3/4" on a Mini with 2xLS front brakes.
But if you are going to fit front discs buy 5/8" S ones instead. [edit] re your Q about washing the parts I would use metho instead. Petrol etc will bugger the rubbers unless all removed. Use rubber grease when assembling. Thanks Doc , i will be sticking to drums , and thanks for metho and rubber grease tip. |
Author: | 1071 S [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:58 pm ] |
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Unless the damage looks worse than the photos - and the colour of the shoes suggests they may be fluid soaked. I would just be reassembling what you have. Peel the rubber dust shields back carefully and check for wetness. If there isn't any and the car has been in recent use I would leave them alone as well. I'net diagnosis is really dodgy... but if things generally look OK, they probably are. Cheers, Ian |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:01 pm ] |
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Wheel cylinders are cheap and seals are even cheaper. If you disturb them and the bores are OK I'd do all the seals, it's an easy job and peace of mind. |
Author: | IndigoBlueCooperS [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:06 pm ] |
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I thought that the 15/16 cylinders had a slightly different bolt pattern to the 1 inch ones. The cylinders need to match the backing plate, unless you want to file out the backing plate holes to match the other cylinders. Early Minis were 1 inch, and latter ones were 15/16. Changeover was in the early clubman range somewhere. I could be wrong as it is a long time since I have played with front drums. |
Author: | MiniBill [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:19 pm ] |
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I think i will just buy all new bits , drums cylinders shoes etc as i want it to be a daily driver and as mentioned i shouldnt skimp when it comes to brakes. Also with the roadworthy's nowadays with them photographing your breaks i want them all shiny ![]() Thanks for all the replies and i should have mentioned it's a 73 mini Cheers Bill |
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