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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:44 pm 
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Hey Peeps could someone kindly tell me which rubber boot do i need for my inner driveshaft , as im a little confused on how you would get the boot/seal over the ball bearing cage " not in the picture sorry " .Im pretty sure i have the Rod Change Gearbox and assume there is a difference from the remote one.

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Thanks in Advance Bill

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:50 pm 
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This is the one for pot joints:

http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... cts_id=167

The "inner race" of the pot joint as shown in your picture comes off the driveshaft with a clean mallet hit by holding the driveshaft vertically and the race pointing downwards. Wear proper shoes. (Yes this is how it is done in the official manual!) The race is held onto the drive shaft by a circular clip that looks like this:

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... H8706.aspx

it can break easily so have some spare before attempting this. Then the boot goes on, a zip tie on the INSIDE of the pot boot, then pop on the race which should click in, make sure all the balls are in place and slide into the pot, boot over the pot and tie over the pot. Don't forget grease!

TRICK: If you pile on LMM grease onto the race, you can sort of "glue" the balls into race long enough to slip the race into the pot. Trust me, this is useful esp when going it in situ under the car by yourself in the dark! (Been there, done that!)

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 3:45 pm 
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IMO it's easier to pop the CV off the other end of the shaft, fit the pot joint boot then bung the CV back on.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 4:13 pm 
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http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... |Back%20to

New ones are $73 each at karcraft just knock them staight on the diff if you go that way get some diff oil seals at the same time

I went new cause one oil seal was a bit of a drip


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 7:22 pm 
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Thanks lillee , Doc and Beam .
I will try Lillee's way first as ive just finished putting balljoints , brakes shoes etc etc on the other end and would think Lilees way would be quicker.
Hopefully i can work it out and see which way the rubber boot goes on , so i take the circlip out then knock the end off ? Oh Lillee the bit you say brakes sometimes is that the circlip ?

I'll order the boots from karcraft during the week if they have them .

Thanks for the replies as always im very greatful.

Cheers Bill

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:43 pm 
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And the same grease goes in them as we told you before the black stuff couldnt be bothered finding the post again


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:55 am 
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The circlip is internal, you need to whack the inner race off the shaft. As the inner race tries to slide off it should compress the circlip inside and pop off. Sometimes they end up breaking instead of compressing.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:48 am 
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mini_mad_matt wrote:
The circlip is internal, you need to whack the inner race off the shaft. As the inner race tries to slide off it should compress the circlip inside and pop off. Sometimes they end up breaking instead of compressing.

Sweet mmm thanks, i googled a few pictures of the shaft and found on a uk mini forum pics of a guy getting his off " he had an extremely hard time " his was rusted on well and truly , hopefully mine wont be " shouldnt be was well coated in grease " , but pictures are a lot easier for me to get my head around how things work .

Thanks Again
Bill

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 5:54 pm 
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Tool needed is a big hammer but i wasnt reusing my old stuff just the shaft which wasnt affected by the hammer


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:04 pm 
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mini_mad_matt beat me to it. Mine came off with one hit, bounced all over the floor, hence why I said wear proper shoes or risk injury from projectile inner race...

If the circlip isn't broken by this, I'd be tempted to change it either way...

PS. "My" way isn't a cheat way, it straight from the Leyland service manual (black book)

If all else failes, $73 each side to replace the pot joint from Karcraft is a good bet!

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:10 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
mini_mad_matt beat me to it. Mine came off with one hit, bounced all over the floor, hence why I said wear proper shoes or risk injury from projectile inner race...

If the circlip isn't broken by this, I'd be tempted to change it either way...

PS. "My" way isn't a cheat way, it straight from the Leyland service manual (black book)

If all else failes, $73 each side to replace the pot joint from Karcraft is a good bet!


Thanks Lillee its much appreciated.

Cheers Bill

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 11:12 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=2&t=60497

Theres a topic of what bearing size if you wanna just change the bearings


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:49 pm 
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Ok i have whacked em off " was quite easy thanks to lillees instructions" is the rubber boot beside it " pictured " the right one for it ?

Image

Cheers Bill

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:14 pm 
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Nope thats for u-js joints
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

Thats what ya need should be same number in karcraft

http://www.minispares.com/catalogues/cl ... x?2~15~129

7-8 on there


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:30 pm 
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Image

http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... cts_id=167

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