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 Post subject: Van Rear Interior Trim
PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 10:10 pm 
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
I want to sound proof and neaten up the interior of my van. Bearing in mind it is not going to be a show car and will have stuff thrown in it from time to time Has anyone done this and have any pictures. I am going to put a safety barrier between the cargo area and the driver/passenger seats and thats about how far I have gotten in thinking about it

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 12:40 am 
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998cc
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Location: Southwest WA
Ive not done mine yet, but have started by lining the rear shell with mdf strips to protect the bodywork from flying objects that might get thrown against the sides during the odd fast corner or three...
Carpet is layed on the floor area and will be over the wheel arches, then lining the rear walls and roof with yetti fur... bout 3" pile, scruffy black.. hopefully soon :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 12:43 am 
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Where are you getting this yetti from?

Theres a few yetties at our school that i'd like to get rid of. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:04 am 
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Location: WAGGA
The plan for my van is wooden tool/storage boxes that run the length of the cargo area over the wheel arches. The floor will be lined with 1.6 aluminium chequer plate. Maybe I will put another steel toolbox in somewhere for jerrycan and oils.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 12:06 pm 
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My plan involves a completly stealth stereo install and hidden spots for tools, jack, spares etc.
I was thinking someting similar to this but with a barrier at the front hiding my sub and amp and only coming up to window height and making it finish flush with the rear door opening

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 12:47 pm 
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Location: Wullingtun, Unzud
Another option (From MiniWorld May 05):
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 1:15 pm 
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big willy wrote:
Where are you getting this yetti from?

Theres a few yetties at our school that i'd like to get rid of. :lol:


Image


Seriously, and back on topic, I was thinking I want to keep my van fast and light. So just some carpet on the walls and the mat I already have for the tray.

But having said that, I already have some dents from forgetting I have the grocery shopping in the back and the odd tin can working itself loose.

One of the POs built some rear speaker pods out of MDF. They were as heavy as lead and sounded crap, so I got rid of them.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 3:34 pm 
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Why don't you go and but some stone guard from supercraps and paint it with that it is as strong as shti and won't let you down it is the same stuff that people use under their cars you can paint it and stuff too so That is whatI'm doin to my van.

Pat

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 4:01 pm 
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While we are on the van subject at the moment... My van is in pieces and the front wiring loom wasnt in the car when i got it, and i am looking to do a dual bettery conversion on it and i have no idea where the wiring is meant to go. Does any one have any pics of the battery setup behind the driver seat? So i can tell where holes need to be drilled and see where the power cable is actually run
Cheers
Daniel

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 4:25 pm 
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Image

Hope it helps
Dat


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 4:32 pm 
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So where does the power cable run...? Does it go through a hole in the floor then to the engine bay?
And trying to fit two there might be a little tricky, unless they fit under the tray...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 4:49 pm 
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Mine drops through the floor at the battery and runs forward along the underside of the floor, protected in the brake line channel. it comes up into the engine bay alongside the brake line to the master cylinder between the firewall and the front sub-frame. Once it clears the rear edge of the front sub-frame it crosses over the top of the transfer housing to be connected to the regulator.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:15 pm 
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
It was suggested to stoneguard the interior by a mate of mine and I was going to do that. I think I will get some plywood and make some interior panels and possibly use dzus fasteners to put them in. MDF is too heavy and falls apart if it gets any moisture in it, even high humidity and heat will distort it. The problem of panel damage from objects in the car will then be eliminated. I haven't figured out the speakers yet but it won't be elaborate and it defintly won't need speaker boxes in the rear.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 1:38 am 
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Location: Southwest WA
big willy wrote:
Where are you getting this yetti from?

Theres a few yetties at our school that i'd like to get rid of. :lol:


Spotlight. dont know if you have them over there, but over here hey have a huge range of supercute fabrics and stuff (yetti fur one of them). Great colours too. Leopard skin patterns, black with red paw prints, purples, pinks, you name it they have it.

The long pile stuff is expensive but should be good for sound and will hide joins easy.
The lining of mdf is glued in strips to follow the curve of the body skin, then will cover with the the yetti fur (I dont know its real name, but yetti fur is the best description I can give)
But after seeing the red van interior in that previous post.. red would make it look bigger :roll: but the red yetti fur is a real tacky red, black would be better... aaaargh

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78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 6:01 am 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC.
If you were doing a dual battery conversion, you could fit the second battery in that dead space behind the existing battery and under the upper floor.

I got tired of not being able to put the seat all the way back. So I made a hatch through the upper floor and fitted a universal battery tray from Bursons to the floor pan. Then I dropped in a Slimline battery DIN-53L, as used in lots of european cars and commonly available at your auto parts store of choice. The negative cable was long enough to reach the new location, but I had to extend the positive lead. The whole exercise took me three hours and cost about $120. Now I can put the seat all the way back. :)

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