Hi folks, after years of scrounging pump-ups around the traps, I recently bought a Liquidlevers pressure/vacuum hydrolastic pump - about $800 direct from LL, delivered in 5 days and a nice bit of gear. If you need a pump up on the Sunny Coast (QLD) and can get to Buderim - give me a call and i may be able to help you out. You supply the fluid (need 4 ltrs for flush and fill, 2 ltrs to adjust height - available on ebay and Minisport). Won't lend it or use homemade brew. If someone else is doing this commercially in the area let me know - I'm not going to spoil anyone's livelihood. PM me. Cheers

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Min - 1970 MkII S, 119hp Dave Anton 1380, SH Engineering belt drive, 1.5 rollers, 123Tune ignition, 48 DCO SP Weber, HP Headers, MSD, Maniflow ex. Swiftune SC/CR 3.7 + ATB, all KAD front, antiroll bars and gas shocks, 6 inch Minilites with Dunlop Sports

Hell yeah cranky, I'll be in that as soon as my baby is regoed. I'll come up the coast for a cruise and hydro service but have NO idea what I'm doing with it haha.
It's sitting a little low at the moment (about 80mm). I've heard of a guy in brizzy but not up your way and he charges an arm and a leg.


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You totally just made my day!

Sent using taptalk - probably from my garage....

I'll put the kettle on.

Might be worth checking your knuckle joints and cups. If they've been squeaking, or sitting for a long time, chances are you need new ones - that can make your car sit low, and depending on the model we may not be able to correct that just by increasing the pressure. We can pack the knuckle shaft for height, but it's also important that the joint/cups are in similar condition on each side (eg both fronts are the same and both rears).

If you drive 'enthusiastically' I recommend you get at least front, and if you can also the rear comp bump stops - cuts roll dramatically, at the expense of a stiffer ride. On Min, I have these and fully adjustable suspenders front and rear - antiroll bars at both ends and shockies on the front. Add 6" minilites and sticky Dunlops and she sticks to the road like gum on your shoe.

It's also likely you'll need a front alignment afterwards...all fun and games, but at least no %$##@ing computers, OBDs etc YAY! (and a well adjusted hydro car is a joy to drive)

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Min - 1970 MkII S, 119hp Dave Anton 1380, SH Engineering belt drive, 1.5 rollers, 123Tune ignition, 48 DCO SP Weber, HP Headers, MSD, Maniflow ex. Swiftune SC/CR 3.7 + ATB, all KAD front, antiroll bars and gas shocks, 6 inch Minilites with Dunlop Sports

Yeah I got no idea about the joints and cups but it has been sitting for about 3 years. I can do the wheelie at work that's easy enough.
I just have NO knowledge about hydro and associated suspensions so any help is good help

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The only grease the knuckle joints get is the small blob put in when made. The grease nipple on the top arm only does the needle bearings.

I have a `grease needle' that I bought to grease my Valiant's balljoints, it also works fine on Mini knuckle joints. I poke it through the rubber boot and give it 1 pump of EP2 grease every couple of years.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.