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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 2:50 pm 
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Location: Cherrybrook NSW
phillb wrote:
oldblade wrote:
Ok the blackbox/accuspark has to go it really is rubbish. driven me nuts for way to long. it works then gremlins enter it then it works then it causes pinging then its fine, then it only starts when you turn the key back from start. arhhhhhhhh
There is a reason they discontinued it.

so the question is Scorcher or 123 with bluetooth ?


Unless you have a “lemon” unit I agree with Tim. It could be not getting enough volts. I have a CD player in my mini and it would sound terrible, distorted. I thought the speakers were blown. Turned out the car battery was dying and when CD got low voltage when stopped or idle it sounded terrible.

My black box has been fantastic, and for me the best part is looking in the engine bay it all looks all totally standard.


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New battery
New Battery cables
New Coil
12.6V with car left overnight without starting
New Solonoid

I might have a lemon Note it wasn't an original Accuspark but a copy/fake same factory unit from Tony on this side

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 3:37 pm 
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The question is though, how much power is getting to the coil/solenoid while cranking? If your starter is chewing up all the power you won't get enough to run the blackbox unit. Do you know the CCA of your new battery?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 4:05 pm 
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timmy201 wrote:
cooperess wrote:
simon k wrote:
I don't know why you lot persevere with distributors at all....

What do we use instead?

Megajolt is an alternative - trigger wheel, sensor, ecu and a coil pack

E.g.
http://www.trigger-wheels.com/store/con ... k/p98.html


that's what I started out with (how-to here: viewtopic.php?f=25&t=56242), but now I'm using the megasquirt ECU and 4 individual LS1 coils that I put in when I had it blown & injected, I have ditched the blower & injection and gone back to a carb, but kept the ECU running the ignition only

When I put my car back to original I'll be putting the original distributor, points and condenser back in, and won't pressure-wash my motor any more

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 4:42 pm 
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848cc
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timmy201 wrote:
The question is though, how much power is getting to the coil/solenoid while cranking? If your starter is chewing up all the power you won't get enough to run the blackbox unit. Do you know the CCA of your new battery?


Yeap 620CCA and a new starter as well I did that about a month ago


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 4:56 pm 
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oldblade wrote:
timmy201 wrote:
The question is though, how much power is getting to the coil/solenoid while cranking? If your starter is chewing up all the power you won't get enough to run the blackbox unit. Do you know the CCA of your new battery?


Yeap 620CCA and a new starter as well I did that about a month ago


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201711 ... 995168.jpg

They still don't mean that enough power is getting to the blackbox unit. You could possibly have the same issue if you swapped to another type of distributor

Can you measure the volts during cranking on the + terminal on the coil?
Where is the switched positive feed for the blackbox located? (coil/key/somewhere else) What is the voltage like here as well?

Mine is 12.6V at the coil with ignition on. 10.6V while cranking and starts perfectly

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Last edited by timmy201 on Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 5:55 pm 
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My Accuspark black box needs 10V+ during cranking or it just won't fire.
However it has been fine even in winter, since I went back to a Lucas starter. These pull the voltage down less than pre-engaged starters.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 8:05 pm 
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thanks i'll check the cranking volt tomorrow

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 6:05 pm 
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Out with the old in with the new and it started first kick and on key. I haven’t even connected up the Bluetooth yet to tune it

ImageImage


Time to start a new thread

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 10:04 am 
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Agreed. Have questions.

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2023 9:52 am 
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I thought I’d add a few notes here in case anyone else is still running one of these units.

The dwell settings mentioned earlier are a bit misleading, and:
-Dwell time + half advance needs to be 90 degrees or less
So if you have 70 degrees of dwell and 30 degrees of advance this adds up 70 + 15 = 85 degrees which is fine
-The Accuspark instructions recommended starting at 20 degrees dwell and a maximum of 75 degrees dwell
-Using the coil charge time given earlier in the thread, you want to ramp from 20 degrees at 1000rpm up to 75 degrees at 4000rpm and hold this till the end
-If the dwell time is too low/short it will mean the coil is not charging for long enough to give a good spark. I’d previously set my dwell at 40 degrees at 3000rpm as per one curve in this thread, when the ideal dwell time is closer to 65 degrees. This increase solved my strange running issue

It’s worth keeping in mind that points ignition are set at 60 degrees for all RPM, so even 60 degrees dwell at all rpm would give a result the same as points. If you are using a 3 ohm coil it's appropriate to keep 60 degrees for all RPM

If you want to add a 1.5 ohm coil for more spark power, then a ramp from 20 degrees dwell at idle to 75 degrees at 4000rpm would be an appropriate dwell.

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