So they must have got the car for free?

Be nice, I was a VW and Formula Vee mechanic in a previous life. Loooong time ago.
I still wouldn't mind a Manx buggy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mmmm, Manx. Now theres a way to make a VW into a great car. I've had three.......all gone now.

Hi Kevin how much is to much crank end play in air cooled combie engine. Helping a buddy of mine tidy up his kombi van. Ta Bernard

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Sorry Bernard it's been too long... 1971? Not touched one since.
My memory now ain't what it was. I do remember the shims.
This may help you.
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=137434

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Something strange happened today
I fitted new spark plugs as the engine was breaking down under load but otherwise running good
I also degreased the engine to remove a lot of road grime
Anyway went for a drive this afternoon to see how it went
Well it went OK for about 10kms then i lost power
The exhaust note changed as well
So i pulled over and had a look and didn't see anything wrong so i hopped back in and it drove fine again
For about 500 metres then it lost power and ran like the timing was retarded
Turned around and limped home only to get like 1 km from home and it ran fine again
Had a look at the dist, leads, wires, coil, etc and it seemed to be running like normal
Question is---- What happened to make it run like this
It has the accuspark module fitted
Did someone say it has a limp home mode if something goes wrong
Seems strange it was OK after the degrease then it played up then it came good

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

My bet is you got moisture in the dizzy cap. Made it crossfire, then eventually it got hot enough to evaporate the moisture drops.
I have had it happen. I now spray WD-40 inside the cap every 6 months.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok the blackbox/accuspark has to go it really is rubbish. driven me nuts for way to long. it works then gremlins enter it then it works then it causes pinging then its fine, then it only starts when you turn the key back from start. arhhhhhhhh
There is a reason they discontinued it.

so the question is Scorcher or 123 with bluetooth ?

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1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

We are going to use this one on my son's 1300 clubby-
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2013.htm

Made in USA not China.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Mine has been great recently after I've upgraded the wiring to the front end of the car. Can you check how many volts you're getting at the coil while cranking? If the unit is not getting enough power it will give those starting symptoms

What type of ignition curve did you go with?

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I don't know why you lot persevere with distributors at all....

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

What do we use instead?

Speaking as one of "you lot", I removed the distributor once and the car wouldn't start, so I put it back in and the car ran beautifully. May have been the plug leads swinging free in the breeze that was the problem.

But seriously Simon, I guess everyone has their own objective with their car. As I work to get mine back on the road I am aiming to have absolutely as many things as possible original. I'm assured by the experienced guy doing the mechanicals that a properly serviced and adjusted 29D4 with good points, condenser, coil, leads and plugs will work just fine for my purposes, so that's the plan at this stage.

However I fully understand those who aren't constrained by originality taking a different approach for performance or reliability or whatever reasons.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Unless you have a “lemon” unit I agree with Tim. It could be not getting enough volts. I have a CD player in my mini and it would sound terrible, distorted. I thought the speakers were blown. Turned out the car battery was dying and when CD got low voltage when stopped or idle it sounded terrible.

My black box has been fantastic, and for me the best part is looking in the engine bay it all looks all totally standard.


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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Megajolt is an alternative - trigger wheel, sensor, ecu and a coil pack

E.g.
http://www.trigger-wheels.com/store/con ... k/p98.html

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