At the moment I get nothing on the gauge. From memory I connected it to the green wire from the blackbox

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Mine is on neg terminal of coil. It's a near new AutoGage one, made by Autometer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So what map is everyone running now ?

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Are these still available new? Are they compatible with the latest Windows? My old PC in the shed just died so I don't have access to an XP machine any more.

M

I got mine from Convertible Mini last year, I think he was getting them direct from the supplier?

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I purchased mine from Convertible Mini late last year.
Found it did not work with the late A+ electronic distributor - the one with the electronic box mounted on the outside of the distributor.
So I have just fitted an early A+ distributor, converted it to electronic with a kit from MiniKingdomOnLine, and it works a treat. Notable improvement in low down power which I put down to earlier advance.
I am yet to try different curves, but I will try something similar to the Aldon yellow.
I did try Tony Convertable Mini, but it sounds like he is out of action - hope he is OK.

Thanks for the info. I do have a late A+ electronic dizzy. Since I already have Ben's excellent kit with the trigger wheel, coil pack, EDIS, sensors, brackets and leads, I have decided to go for a Megajolt. It is overkill I'm sure but about the same price, given I had the other stuff.

I hope Tony is OK. I tried to call him today and it went straight to message. Did he get hit by the floods last month?

M

Looking at his Facebook he might be on holiday

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On the recent Rylstone Rally the temperature in the morning was minus 5deg C. My car was not happy starting and another car with a black box refused to start via starter but immediately started via roll/clutch start. We realised later this was due to voltage drop probably causing the black box to not operate during cranking.

I know I could rewire the box direct to the battery and set up a relay, but these were really extreme conditions. Just wondering if a solution would be if I carried a small 12v battery that clipped to the coil during startup under these circumstances?

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

There is an accuspark fix for this Phil, I can email you the diagram they sent me. It's a toggle switch that bypasses the black box during starting.

PM -
Edit give me mobile as it's on my phone.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can you send it to me too please? As Phill mentioned mine would only start that morning via roll start, it's very difficult to start in the morning at any temperature. It normally only starts to run when you let go of the starter..

I've got 6 degrees of timing via the blackbox at idle. Would it be worth advancing the distributor to 6 degrees and knocking 6 degrees off the timing map for easier starting bypassing the blackbox?

I'd like to get a multimeter on the coil and see how much voltage I'm getting during cranking...

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Tim,
Just set the dizzy locked at TDC, on bypass it will start and run at that. Then flick switch to run. I will SMS you the schematic.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So the motor should start easily enough timed at TDC? I was thinking along the same lines as Tim and locking it at normal idle timing.

Is the issue that with low voltage there is no spark because the box is not sending any signal?


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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

The issue is the initial sparks and timing are provided by the dizzy module up to 200 rpm. However if voltage falls below 10V the black box doesn't let this happen. The bypass takes the box offline until you flick the switch to run.

Bypass kit was provided by Accuspark after I complained about the problem.

Mine started at Rylestone fine without the bypass, however I had gone back to the Lucas starter as it draws much less than a Gemini (350A!) does. I also have a big 640CCA battery.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Pics-

(Edit) Black box is now NLA, even from 'Convertible Mini'.



Toggle switch is an on/on type.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.