Hi guys,

I had a flat tyre a few months ago when I got the tyres put onto my new wheels. I got a new inner tube and it was fine.

On Saturday at the start of a drive I pumped up the front tyres as they looked a bit low. The gauge at the service station was being a bit funny so I thought I'd check them when I got home. I must have over inflated them (can't have been by very much)

Skip forward to this afternoon and I've got two flat tyres - the front ones.


Are the inner tubes really needed? The wheels are old reverse offset cooper style steel wheels which I've repainted. The shop that installed them weren't keen on not having inner tubes...

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Depending on what tyre you are using decides wether you need tubes or not.

Most radials dont need tubes but cross plys do.

If the rim is a one piece design not split rim and your using radials you shouldnt need tubes.

Rodney

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

One flat tyre would suggest a nail or something in the tyre. Two flats suggests installation issues. Now, I'll admit I'm thinking from the mindset of a cyclist here, not a motorist, but the cyclist in me wonders if the tubes were fitted incorrectly and that maybe there is sideways pressure on the valve, hence tearing the valve free from the tube.

On the other hand, they're steel wheels, why are you using tubes? Wouldn't tubeless tyres be sufficient? (this is what is commonly known as a display of ignorance, please educate me)

Why would a crossply require a tube but a radial not? Doesn't it depend on the rim?
I'm not being snarky, just looking for information.

Our Minis were built to be tubeless.
Just because they don't have the humped locking bead on the wheel does not mean they have to have tubes.

Noticed that the repro Cooper S steel wheels sold recommend tubes fitted. Why? NFI - beyond my realm of knowledge or experience.

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

If the tyre says tubeless on it the no tube required, the ridges have nothing to do with sealing, they're just to stop it falling off rim if it goes flat. Go back were you got them fitted, did they supply tyres?

I've been to places that refuse to fit tyres to Mini rims that don't have the little internal humps unless you use tubes. Something about the possibility of rolling an underinflated (but not flat) tyre off the rim.

The easiest thing is to go somewhere else...

Wrt your problem, i've also been told that you shouldn't use tubes with radial tyres... Apparently the tube can chafe on the tyre and develop holes ... Maybe remove the tube and check it out??

I'd just fit the tyres without the tubes and see how you go..

Cheers, Ian

I work at Ian Diffen
Many things can cause a tube to pop tyres normally have little tiny stickers on the inside people that dont really know what they are doing will leave them in.A small thing like that can cause a hole by rubbing or pinching the tube when fitting
We will only put tubes in if the customer really wants them they are far better off without them
Unless where the bead seats in quite rusted or pitted
Tubes perfect for rusted 10" boat trailer wheels
I'd run them tubeless I have S wheels on mine no problems

Many 10" tyres eg A008s have rib lines inside, they will chafe a tube up quickly and make it leak, unless you sprinkle talc or similar in there.
I've never managed to roll a 10" tyre off an S wheel or a Contessa, even on the track. Wasn't for the lack of trying...

The other downside to tubes is that moisture gets in past the tube stem and rusts the wheels.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

A simple approach before returning to the tyre shop that fitted them is to inflate them both, remove from the car and dunk in some water to see where the leak is. Whilst you may not be able to fix the problem yourself at least you'll be armed with the information needed when you go to get it fixed. It could be the valves (a bad batch?).

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

putting them in water is only any good if they are tubeless
with a tube air will just come out where the valve hole is has no where else to escape
unless it's the valve core

I was simply suggesting going right back to basics. Bubbles coming out the valve suggest a valve problem, bubbles coming through the tread suggest a puncture, bubbles coming through the bead suggest something else, etc. Just a way to focus on the exact location of the leak and not guess or make assumptions.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Here in NZ if the vehicle is low volume certified (your equivalent of 'engineered') it must have tubes fitted unless the wheels are 'bead lock' type.

Now I hate red tape as much as the next guy, and I realise this is "one rule to fit all" nonsense, but there must be something behind the idea of tubes in old rims regardless of tyre type? Maybe?

Anywho, despite that, two flats after recent tubes fitted = bad fitment to me. My guess would be as above, the leaks will be at the valve.

Either that or you ran a Police road block but were so high on P you forgot.......

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http://www.mini-hb.co.nz

Seems strange that all of a sudden you have two flat tyres , someone playing games with you ?

Have you pumped them up since , if so , are they still holding air ?