Any one had any problems with Karcraft ones? Mine's about 6 months old. One's been leaking grease on the shaft side and yesterday I noticed the big steel cable tie came off the other one. Now I know all I have to use zip ties to repair but I thought they would last longer than 6 months without attention.

The outer lip doesn't seem to be as good as the originals. I use plastic cable ties and had no problems as I haven't got the correct tensioner for the steel ones. I used steel ties on the CV side and both have come off (need the correct tool).

Major problem that Kev - DRMINI - found when putting together was the tolerance on the diff cover bushing. One was OK the other one just wouldn't fit (exchanged for another).

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

I'll get under there later and re grease them with the black cv grease and zip tie both sides - shaft and diff side. They're the only parts that's let me down from Karcraft.

If they have been uncovered for an unknow time while driving it might be a god idea to clean out the old grease and repack them with new clean stuff. You don't want some rocks or grit in there grinding around.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

How does one actually tighten those metal straps without the specific tool?

I've got a Band-it tool around here which will do the job, but as not everyone has access to one, is there a specific method for tightening the metal straps without the Band-it?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

These were brand new done at factory

2 pair of pliers, it ain't perfect but it works...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I dropped into a local CV shop recently to pick up some bands and although obviously they had a banding tool showed me his method without.

He wrapped a rag around his thumb to hold the band against the little tags that stick up, and wrapped the band you pull around the pliers a few times so it cant slip, pulled, then fold over.

....however the bands he had were a little bit different as they had a little more distance/room between the fold down tags and the part where you fold over and these seem to make this method easier.

Of course with years of experience he also made it look easy.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I found zip ties pretty much useles when I redid all the inner and outer cv joints on my van. I would stick to the steel bands and be careful not to over tighten them. I just use a pair of pliers and pull then fold over and push the tabs down. Hey presto not dramas since.

Make sure the folded over bit is facing against rotation so it cant catch on any thing.

Rodney

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

I use good quality zip ties and never have an issue. Current ones have been on for 2 years. You can get zip ties nice and tight with a pair of pliers and a screw driver. If your using cheap (eg SCA) ties, I wouldn't expect them to last. You get what you pay for.

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1963 Morris 850

I went and gave john mini king at mulgrave a visit and got a new set ill throw them in during the week

I don't know if it's common knowledge, but you can get the metal ties from Bunnings now. They should be with the plastic zip ties in the electrical section.

Jim

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

A quick one how far is the exhust pipe soppose to be from the pot joint on drivers side

Mine is pretty close. Shouldnt be hitting but they do run vlose I believe

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

Yeah like mine