Hi all

I'm restoring a wiring loom from a Mk2 car that had a generator and ignition start for use in a "64 van (I'll connect this to the original van rear loom).

The loom has been modified to run an alternator but I also want to replace the old 2 fuse box with a modern blade type fusebox.

I don't have a lot of electrical experience so want to know if this a straight forward job.

My thoughts would be that all you would need to do is disconnect the feed in and feed out wires related to each electrical circuit and connect them to a new fuse (which you would then label) so that instead of everything running through 2 fuses they are separated to run through 6 fuses.

Am I right or am I deluded as this idea seems too simplistic?

Thanks

Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

Yes, its exactly as you say. The trickiest bit is deciding on the wattage required for each fuse.

You may have to have a wire looping from the incoming +12V feeds to branch it off to each of the circuits because typically the two fuse fuseboxes have a single wire on one side of the fuse and several wires on the other.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

You could probably leave the horn circuit fuse @ 35 amps as it draws a large current. For the other circuits, you could probably use 5 to 10 amp fuses. You can work it out using the formula I = P/V where I is the current (fuse amperage required) P is the total power consumption (in watts) an V is 12. Eg if the flasher globes add up to 50 watts, current draw is about 4 amps, so you would use 10 amp fuse to be on the generous side.

It is a good idea to upgrade the fuse box (if you are not worried about orginality) and use the appropriate fuses for each circuit, as in my humble opinion, the 35 amp fuse that is standard fitment for all the green colour code circuits is far to high if a short occurs in one of the secondary circuits, eg flashers, and as a consquence, the wiring is overloaded and in extreme cases, melts!

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Many thanks gentlemen

I'll have a go at it myself as it sounds pretty straightforward.

I'm also upgrading to halogen headlights but there's plenty of information about on how to do the wiring for these.

Cheers

Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

I know auto electricians charge zillions per hour so they can afford their gold plated wire cutters, but is this a job best left to them? I'm not suggesting incompetence or danger of blowing yourself up or frying the car, I'm thinking along the lines of they being the best ones to know which circuits to separate and what sized fuses to use.

Am I on solid ground or am I shying away from my own electrical incompetence?

Well I wouldn't like to be rude, so lets just say this is quite a straight forward job.

In most cases its just a matter of moving the existing circuits onto their own fuse, you don't even need to replace the terminals on the wires.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Hi Grouch

Thanks for the advice but I'd prefer not pay an auto electrician if I can do the job easily and safely myself (besides the 35A horn circuit, I reckon that if each fuse was rated low enough (say 5-10A), if a fault did develop in the circuit, the fuse would blow before any electrical device or wiring was damaged).

I work with a couple of electronics technicians so I reckon I'll take the circuit diagram to work-I'm sure they could help me calculate the current that each circuit carries and therefore what size fuses would be best to use.

Cheers

Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

... and what size wire.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Well let me just say, if you let all the smoke escape, it's not my fault

Hmmph.
Maybe I'm too used to MG electrics, truly the work of the devil.

I think this was covered by Pottsy in one of the Mini Experience magazines. He also installed a heap of relays as well from memory.
Maybe Watto can chime in (or someone else) with what issue number. My filing system is not that efficient.

KB

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I don't see the point of this. If everything is kept in good order there are no problems.

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35amp fuse for horn I don't think so! It would prob melt before blowing the fuse.

To a degree, yes. But IMO the factory (plastic) indicator/dip switch is up to the task of handling the continuous highbeam current without relays, especially if you add some spotlights.

And the earlier cars had no short circuit protection in the park/headlghts at all.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I read and smile at threads like this. So many different opinions some good advise and some not so good. I will not dish out any free advise here and wish the person planning to use a Modern "Blade fuse box" the greatest of luck. Might look good if done properly but are these Blade fuse type boxes actually any good? lol.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I have my doubts about the ones you buy in supercheap or Autobahn et al.
I've used them in other cars, and they're not great.

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