anyone got a link or a guide as to how to change the driveshaft seals? I may try and do mine over the weekend as its starting to annoy me how much it leaks overnight.

Is it something I can do by myself over a day/weekend with just basic tools? (with jackstands and such) or should I seek guidance of someone who has done it prior?


and with regards to fuel smell, what could be the cause of having a bit of a fuel smell when the windows are rolled down? doesnt smell when its closed. only slightly when its open. seems to have gone away a bit after I've parked the car out for a week.

It only really started when I had the tank near full and I was doing a left turn (a little hard although at low revs in 3rd I think)

I heard the carby backfire and it stunk of petrol. Almost like I spilled petrol on my floor or something. Went away after that but time to time I get a faint smell still. Didnt have it prior to that. What sohuld I be looking at>

http://restorationmini.com/forum/index. ... lbum;in=31
Here these may help might need to sign up i think i flogged it off bill

http://www.minicoopersofmiami.com/catalog.html or click repair manual at bottom of page

You will need to get under the car, so jackstands are a priority. You will need ot identify what kind of output universals you have (a picture will be fine) as this changes to seal part you order.

As for tools, you will need a good set of spanners at the least with the rest being general tools. Being able to undo the top ball joint on the hub on each side is an advantage. Its a good idea to pick up a ball joint cracker before undertaking the job. You can undo these without, but its not a good idea as it can be difficult, and you may end up damaging the ball joint and nut.

The rest of the description really hinges on the inner universals you have, as to how you will go about it.

Take a few photos, and we will go from there.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Sounds a little daunting. lol.

How do I find out which ones I've got? can I just prop it up on a ramp and snap photos?



Mick, I may need to bother you about it at some point! lol

my main issue being if I have to pull parts off its probably not the best thing to do on the side of the road whilst I have no garage!! !lol

You could have uni joints or pot joints the seals are behind them uni joints aint that hard to take out but pots can be ive done both types

http://www.classicmotoring.net.au/cmos/ ... ge&pID=107 uni joint

http://www.classicmotoring.net.au/cmos/ ... ge&pID=455 pot joint

ive got pots ive been told...

Re; fuel smell , Has the fuel tank got a breather on it ? , have a look at the top of the tank and see if it has a hose running down the rear firewall and out through the boot floor .

I have a pair of Pot Joint Seals here and can give you the sizes to pick up from CBC Bearings. (If someone could please concur I have the right seals here, that would help...)

The size to bring in is: 1.250 1.875
The seal width is 8mm excluding the dust cover.

Shouldn't be more than a 5 dollars each...ish...and you need two.

I can help you with the tools and concrete floor, but you're doing the dirty work!
Bring it around sometime and we'll book in a date in the garage.

Mick

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I'm grabbing some of stu tonight. 10 bucks for all seals required!

Yes, with your guidance I'll do the dirty work :p I would need to learn anyway. Anytime that suits you suits me!! lol I'll bring the bbq too!!

was thinking this weekend (if youre free) but the 4wd expo is on (although I have no idea what my role there is yet) and its 39 lol

Next weekend would be better. Sunday late morning to be precise.

Don't forget you will need a change of oil, may as well replace that oil filter, and check the CV boots for any damage (look for big clots of grease getting around.)

There is NO better time to do CV boots other than when the drive shafts are out. So it is worth your while to check these out before we set to work. Inexpensive work, like seals, just a long time to get to them.

Bring it around for a pre-refit condition check if you like this weekend, or very early next week. You will want to know early if there is a rubber boot to have done.

Saying all this, you did just have a roadworthy...but you do also have a leaking oil seal at the same time...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

goodie, it seems to have gone now... im guessing it was some spillage? but I would have thought it would have done so turning right. not left. so far so good though. i should probably get an apron to keep the fuel from spilling on the paint.


mick, sounds good. i'm fine eitherway. I can come by this weekend to have a look. That being said it sohuld have only been done recently when the car was restored. Atleast the driveshaft seals would have been as he only just put the diff on a couple of years ago I think? but alas. lol

I'll grab oil and a filter as well. May as well change it all in one go!

As soon as we went to pull the rear oil seal, the oil would spill out in any case.

Oil seals go when cars have been sitting for too long. Rubbers perish or surface corrosion forms on the rubbing faces which take a swipe of rubber out.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Often the seals leak because the side cover bushes are worn, the drive flange/pot joint then moves around in the seal.
Cure is to press new bushes in (they are ~.007" undersize) then have them machined in a lathe to fit your shafts.
These days this can really only be done with the gearbox out, because the side cover gaskets are lots thicker than originals were. Means the diff shimming needs to be redone. PITA to do this properly in the car.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.