I've done my searching, but can't find an answer to this: When I'm installing the new gauge, do I need to drain the engine oil before removing the pressure sending switch? I'd really like to start this project tonight, but have fresh oil in the motor!

Also, I've purchased the braided line from MiniSpares which is 4ft long. It just doesn't seem like this is quite long enough. Has anyone used this particular item? Is it going to stretch into the dash and just above the radio??
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/G ... 0to%20shop

Thanks guys,

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

You don't need to, but expect a little oil to come out. I originally just wound the new one in, but got a tiny oil leak and put some sealant in there.

Don't know about the oil line (I used an electric gauge), but think about how far it is from the gauge to the front of the engine. It's not far, so I think it would be fine.

If the car has been off for a while the oil will have drained back to the sump, so you won't lose anything at the height of the switch.
4ft cable could be enough if you go as the crow flies, remember that you need at least a good foot of slack inside the dash so you can get the dash in/out.

Watch that SS hose braid doesn't rub on anything, vibrations will make it cut through wires, fuel lines, etc. Be vewwy vewwy careful...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

4ft is stacks, mine comes out and down D/S inner guard then into T piece

And you don't need to bleed the air out of the line before fitting. Some people think you do but whatever is in the line will be at the same pressure as the oil.

I thought I would mention this as I spoke to someone about it just yesterday.

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Behold! The mighty 850!

The air in the line is possibly a good thing, it'll dampen pulsations in oil system......if any. Stops guage wearing out in less than 25 years.

...also make sure it doesn't go near the solenoid or other live electrical connections ! (from experience )

Thanks for all these tips guys, it should certainly save me some grief in the long run. Also, I am having a hard time finding any thread sealant, and would rather not use a thread locker (even blue loctite). I know everyone cautions against using teflon tape, but I reckon if I am careful with the placement of the stuff it shouldn't find it's way into the motore. Alternatively, would some simple lithium grease or perhaps anti-seize do the trick to ensure there are no leaks in the future? If hot oil starts spewing through my dash the girl in the passenger seat will not be impressed.

And I'll be sure to insulate / rubberize any bits of the line that may come in contact with something fragile, or electrical.

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

doesn't the fittings have little tiny washers in them? I got mine from Minispares UK, it has what looks like a nylon type washers that seal hose.

A while back my mates mini which had that horrible nylon pressure hose stuff on the guage, it blew off behind center console, and only took about 30 seconds to dump about 4 odd litres of engine oil into the front mats. By the time he noticed it, it was everywhere! New mats and underfelt were needed, you just can't clean all the oil out of things like that.

I made the mistake of not fully tightening the gauge in my dash once and the oil slowly leaked out. The CD player held a surprising amount before it overflowed into the dash!

I used a non-hardening gasket sealant for mine, as it's what I had:

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... uid-detail

You don't need much. As I said before, it was only the tiniest of trickles from the connection, I just put a tiny smear on the thread and it fixed it up fine. But this is probably better:

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... ant-detail

Well I found the Loctitie Thread Sealant in a "stick" form, and it seems to be working just fine. No oil in the CD player just yet.

It was a simple install, much easier than the electrical crap required by the volts, clocks, and bulbs. All went together smoothly, there was plenty of slack in the 4ft line, and my engine seems healthy.

On startup, with cold 20W-50 she idles around 70psi, and drives near 100. Once it warms up she idles at almost exactly 50psi, and drives around 73-75psi. When I'm idling I can see the gauging "jumping" ever so slightly between about 50-52psi, which I imagine means I have a healthy pressure release valve.

Sound good, right?

Thanks again for the help everyone.

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)