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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:11 pm 
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Can anyone post up pictures of how they tie down there minis onto a trailer?

I have successfully used wheel straps in the past on larger trailers but now I am using an 8 x 5 trailer I have to tie off underneath the car. Minimania have a writeup on how to tie down a mini but I want to see what you guys are doing to give me more options.


Last edited by gtogreen1969 on Tue Apr 10, 2018 12:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 12:07 am 
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I don't have any pics but I usually tie through the wheels one in each corner

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 3:20 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
I tied a ratchet strap around each of the two tie rod ends at the front, and one through each of the big holes in the rear subframe, the one with the rubber cones, four straps in total

I got the method from here:
http://www.minimania.com/How_to_Tie_You ... _a_Trailer


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:28 pm 
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andrew9 wrote:
I tied a ratchet strap around each of the two tie rod ends at the front, and one through each of the big holes in the rear subframe, the one with the rubber cones, four straps in total

I got the method from here:
http://www.minimania.com/How_to_Tie_You ... _a_Trailer



With my 8x5 I won't be able to use the tie rod bars. The pull angle would be vertical and it would bend them in the middle. I was contemplating going around where the lower control arm and tie rod bar join. Not sure about hooking on to the large round hole in the front sub frame behind the axles. Looks a bit thin there.

The rear should be ok using the same method as you are using. Just need to make sure I use some rubber matting to protect the straps.

The car has to travel 2400km so I need to do it safely.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:26 pm 
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Location: Far North Queensland
That is a long distance, so you do want it secure and safe. I trailer my race car from FNQ to SE Qld and at times to NSW. Have done these trips quite a few times over the last 10 or so years. I have points/holes in the subframes that I attach D shackles and chains to with turn-buckles to pull it down secure but not overly tight. I tie it down diagonally, so drivers side front is secured to front left of trailer and so on. Same at the back, drivers side rear is secured to left rear of the trailer. I have points in the trailer too. Doing it this way stops the car from skipping/moving about and it doesn't move. First trip I did I didn't tie it down diagonally and was stopping all the time to re-tighten the chains. Can't emphasise enough to make sure you secure the rear of your mini properly to avoid any mishaps in the event of unexpected sudden stops that may not be of your doing. Good luck with your adventure and be safe.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:43 pm 
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Thanks for the advise,

I used to drive semi's interstate but most of my loads were chain and dog or wheel straps. We always tried to secure the unsprung mass ( Wheels and Axles) because the bouncing effect of the sprung weight can cause damage.

My car was moved by toll transport once. I reckon they went around the lower control arm because the bushes were damaged badly. I didn't realize until a few months later when the suspension failed.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:27 pm 
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Yea, definitely tie it down below the suspension . If that makes sense....
Then if its around the wheels or on the hubs or whatever, the cars suspension is free to bounce around and do what it likes. Without putting extra stress and tension on the straps.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:11 pm 
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Hi Macka

Wheel straps are the go mate all the car carriers and tow truck drivers can't be wrong :D

I have a quick and easy arrangement on my car trailer

On my small similar sized car trailer I have a sleeved ratchet arrangement welded to the rail on the front of the trailer and a recessed D shape tie down point on the floor - I drive the car onto the trailer with the front tyres hard against the front rail and feed the straps from the tie down point over the 2 front tyres and ratchet down tight.

I'll probably get a kick is the ass from others here but

I don't bother with the rear as my trailer has side rails however if you are concerned you could attach safety chain/ratchet straps or a suitable tyre strap arrangement to the rear tyres.

All the best

Chris


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 12:25 pm 
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Location: Western Sydney
One of the guy's that went to last years Hay Nationals did not have his mini tied down at the back.
The local law enforcement officer made him unhook the trailer, drive to the nearest town and buy some more straps and tie it down.
There was a significant donation to the "policemens ball" required as well.

phil

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 1:01 pm 
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Yawn zzzz the rozzers must have been bored that day :D


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 1:42 pm 
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Phil 850 wrote:
One of the guy's that went to last years Hay Nationals did not have his mini tied down at the back.
The local law enforcement officer made him unhook the trailer, drive to the nearest town and buy some more straps and tie it down.
There was a significant donation to the "policemens ball" required as well.

phil


what a crock of crap. The cops up here in QLD have gone mad on secure loads in the last 12 months. The law hasn't changed and isn't specific to the load you are carrying. It is such a subjective law and states that the load must be secure and the load contained within the bounds of the vehicle, with exceptions for flagged loads etc. I would have photographed that car and fought the ticket, then asked the Magistrate for costs to be awarded against the ignorant fool. Thats my soap-box rant about friggin traffic nazis who are only in the branch because they are too gutless to do a real cops job.

Anyway, this argument has been going on for ages and strapping sprung and unsprung loads both have their merit and faults. Strapping down the chassis has one distinct advantage, it reduces work on the suspension. If you are trailering the car 2500k and for example you have stupidly expensive shock absorbers on it would you want the hydraulics of the shock bouncing around the equivalent of having just driven say your race car that distance. The downside is you need to choose your mounting points well.

Strapping using wheel straps has a problem that if you have a tyre that deflates, you are now going to lose tension on the straps.

I have used both. Previously strapping the front subframe via the large holes underneath. Two straps go forward and 2 backwards. The tension on all 4 directions stops the front subframe from moving in any direction. you could for piece of mind strap the rear frame of the car by running a strap over the top of the rear of the frame above where a centre exhaust would sit, and pull it down and forward, but I have found it doesn't make any difference. The new trailer I have just about finished uses the tyre method. I have personally towed thousands of KMs the subframe way and for long distances and never had it move a mm.

I am more concerned about using the tyre method but decided to go with using straps around the top of the tyre and part of the rim, rather than along its tread to hopefully negate the problems of a deflating tyre. Will post some pics of the new trailer in the next couple of days so you can see what I mean.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:35 pm 
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crumpet wrote:
I'll probably get a kick is the ass from others here but ,
I don't bother with the rear as my trailer has side


I was with my brother years & years ago , and he was towing his speedway mini to the Newcastle
Motordrome and some D!ckhead decided to hit the brakes in front of him so the brother had to do likewise , WELL , i was in the back seat of his Fairlane and all we could see was this Mini coming over the front of the trailer and thinking , SH!T, this thing's coming into the back seat .

Luckily it stopped about 6" from the boot of his car , it got hung up on a bar at the front of the trailer,
so anytime i tow a car on a trailer , i always tie them down front & rear diagonally, and after they are tightened down , i then put a heavy duty chain front & rear with a turnbuckle for added measure .

Wheel straps & ratchet straps are a good thing .


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:22 pm 
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http://ekebol.com.au/quicklash.html this is the easiest way to do it right, contact " load restraints " in Cheltenham rd Dandenong and ask for the little ones for trailers. I am towie by trade and use this system all day every day.

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We were prob. drunk when we set it up last and thought this will be a good idea


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:30 am 
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I use a chain on the back tow eye and tension forwards with a strap at the front.
Then a loose safery chain at the front also.
The rear is where the forces are if you have to brake suddenly.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:36 pm 
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This is what I have found the best..
These are the cheaper version. but gives you the idea.
I put these on, and don't touch the car for 600km. I live out western Qld and come in on the Moonie highway that has pot holes and bumps so much you have to slow down to 80kph when your not even towing. The rear used to move and every 50km I had to move the mini back to the middle of the trailer.. Since going these on all 4 corners.. I don't even think about it.

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Towing-Au ... Snap-Hooks

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