Ive seen pulsar dizzy stuff all the time in random posts, what does it do exactly, why is it an improvement, will it make the engine better without changing anything else, is it worth it?

Advantages:
1. no points to burn out or need adjustment.
2. timing stays spot on for long periods, mine hasn't moved at all in 12 months (I have a belt drive instead of cam chain, that helps too).
3. there is hardly any spark scatter (timing difference between cylinders) unlike the average worn Lucas dizzy.
4. when used with a 1.5 ohm coil (as in Pulsar) they give higher spark voltage, so you can increase spark plug gaps to .035" or more. May improve economy.
5. they work effectively to 8000 rpm or more- a standard Lucas without Cooper S 32oz points will not.
6. They are lots cheaper than fitting a Pertronix Ignitor, or a Lumenition kit, or a late model Lucas electronic dizzy, or a 123 dizzy (the best).

Disadvantages-
1. The centrifugal advance curve will probably not be correct for an A series, particularly with a stock motor. Watch you don't over-advance it. See Graham Russell if you want the advance modified, it is not expensive.

<edit> I run 2 of them already and have a 3rd going into the 1412. All have been modified to limit maximum advance.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

For a visual demonstration of the differences between an old Lucas points distributor and an electronic dizzy, see this video.

This is a 123ignition demo and while the Pulsar dizzy won't be as accurate as the 123, you can definitely see the difference between points, Pertronix and full electronic.

This video sold me on the 123 - I have one in my car and it's awesome.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

The Pulsar curve (The 85 I think), above 2500 rpm is much like a Cooper S curve but it stops advancing earlier. It's a decent mod. It's cheap. Probably won't give you more power, but you dizzy in your car is likely to be rather warn out. And the timing will be off anyways.

The Pulsar dizzys are much newer and therefore less likely to be rooted.

Both the Mini's at my house have them. And my Mini went a lot harder after the dizzy was fitted as my old Lucas dizzy was crapped. It also ran smoother, and revved nicer. The other Mini already had a Pulsar dizzy.

Only problem I've had so far is the electronic unit failed in one dizzy, didn't cost me anything to fix because of a good mate of mine giving me another dizzy, but keep that in mind.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Points are a Pain in the Butt

Under $100 for a Pulsar Dizzy you want have to worry about Rain also
one Hour just give it a good polish with Autosole and you also have a Bling one

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

there was an artical in Mini Magic Mag[ no. 4] by Richard Hunt and he converted a Honda Civic dist[79-85] with minimum mods. According to story the Honda had same advance curve as cooper s.
Has anyone tried this dist. mod. and results against Pulsar?

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

The Honda dizzy is very similar to the Pulsar dizzy with a similar advance curve but the Pulsar needs less mods to make it fit.

I run a Pulsar dizzy in my Morris 1100 everyday car and it works great. I have not altered the advance curve but it seems to work well. It starts so much better than a pouints dizzy.

I had a honda dizzy in mine, then put a pulsar one in.
I'd say there was pretty minimal difference between the two. I'd rate the dizzy change, and gemini starter as the two most useful mods I've made in making the car more driveable and easier to start.

There is a lot more machining and prep work to fit the honda one.
Why did I change? -
The wiring is simpler and tidier with the pulsar (the honda uses an external ignitor which you have to mount in the engine bay and make up a small "loom" to it) and everyone was banging on about pulsar dizzy (and honda brakes) at the time, so I thought it may have been better.

For the money and time/effort taken, the pulsar is better but the honda is still possible and works.
KB

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i've never had any problems on my mini with points or with exposure to moisture, renewing ignition parts with bosch stuff keeps the lucas fairy away.

I got more top end power years ago when I went from a 45D with points to a Pertronix ignitor kit, and smoother running when I swapped it to a Pulsar dizzy.
Points suck, I'll never go back. I have 3 converted Pulsar dizzys in motors now, 1 more to go (for the Moke).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So if i want to fit a Pulsar dizzy, where do I get 1 from?
If from a wrecker/motor dealer/repco, what model pulsar?

go to a wrecker, find an N12 Pulsar or Holden Astra equivalent. The cap is held on by 2 screws, dizzy is marked D4R83-** or D4R85-**.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have nothing to add, just wanted to thank who ever put two-and-two together to invent the Pulsar dizzy mod.

There is a large cup of coffee and some timtams here waiting for you as a reward if you ever cared to come by.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I definitely recommend the Pulsar dizzy. The only problem is it gets very close to the grille on Mokes and roundnose Minis. But it's very reliable and a very easy conversion and will work great on an A or an A+ motor.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

they are not suitable for an a-series and must be treated accordingly with the correct modifications and precautions to ensure you do not damage your engine.