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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:10 pm 
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1098cc
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Hey guys, I'm having difficulty mounting my fresh new engine in my restored front subframe.

It's a bloody tight fit.

I can attach one side but then the other just won't move down. It's as if the rubber engine mounts are too thick. I guess they're just new, but the problem remains that I just can't figure out how to push it down enough.

How do other folks do this? What do you recommend??

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:23 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
I believe there are different brands of engine mounts, some are better than others?
Having said that I have tried a few different types and even used some old ones and still my engine was a tight fit in the subframe. I think I ended up using G clamps and prices of wood to pull the engine into line. I don't think I made the holes in the mounts bigger? But as I first fitted the engine almost 3 years ago I have only vague recollection of how I ended up making it fit.
Good luck!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:26 pm 
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Cheers Michael. I do have some decent sized clamps, I'll give that a crack now.

In the mean time all of your advice is welcome, so keep it coming - I'll use all the techniques at once :)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:38 pm 
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Mine was the same with new mounts. I stuck a screwdriver through from underneath and lifted the engine up a little to try and line it up. My subframe was in the car too, so I let it lower quickly from the crane to try and get it to sit in properly.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:51 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Some mounts (the Quinto Hazell ones, which are NLA now) were made for years with the hole offset incorrect between the plates by 4mm.

I put them on the mill and slotted the holes 2mm in each plate, away from each other.

Like this-
Image
I then tack welded 2 nuts inside the 2 hole plate with the MIG.

Some others had their rubber too thick. Both these and the QH ones resulted in difficulty in engine fitment.

Genuine Rover mounts are reputedly OK.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:15 pm 
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1098cc
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Thanks for your help everyone. Used a combo of all of your suggestions.

Firstly I noticed that the lower engine steady was in the way (again) so rather than just move it out of the way (again) I removed the dog bone part entirely
Image

Then I used the good Dr's recommendation and elongated the holes (I did tidy them up after this shot)
Image

A tip that might help others - locate the engine mounts and insert the bolts on this side first
Image

As you then have more mechanical advantage to utilise michaelb's tip on the other end. A good strong clamp lines up well with this end to clamp it lower into position.
Image

Done and done! Mounted in the subframe for the first time
Image

And what the hell...why not dummy mount the radiator while we're here
Image
.
Image

And that trolley works a TREAT. You'd be mad not to make one! :)
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:21 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
That looks pretty damned hot.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:26 pm 
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1360cc
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Blingin'.
Now get it in the car and driving so you can clean the rust off those rotors!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:34 pm 
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Cheers guys! Believe me I will be happy to be regularly scrape those brakes.

Follow-up question...I have the lower engine steady bar, which requires me to drill a hole in the subframe to mount that end of the bar. Given the engine has so much wiggle room the way it is sitting now (just on the two rubber mounts), I couldn't be confident enough that it is in the right angle to drill the mount hole.

I am thinking I will be better off drilling that mount hole once the whole kit and kaboodle is assembled so I can be more sure it's sitting in the right position. What do you think?

Oh and PS call me stupid, but I only realised what that triangular tube addition is for on the subframe...for the engine mount to rest against it :)
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:51 pm 
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Also, Dr...I like your idea to tack welding nuts to the mount. I will totally do that.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:58 pm 
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Morbo28 wrote:
Also, Dr...I like your idea to tack welding nuts to the mount. I will totally do that.

Before you do it, make a dummy jig out of a bit of flat bar, with two 5/16" holes on the exact same spacing as those in the subframe.
If you don't use it, you may have trouble getting the bolts in on assembly, the holes in the mounts have a lot of clearance so the 2 bolts won't centre the nuts before welding.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 11:03 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Before you do it, make a dummy jig out of a bit of flat bar, with two 5/16" holes on the exact same spacing as those in the subframe.
If you don't use it, you may have trouble getting the bolts in on assembly, the holes in the mounts have a lot of clearance so the 2 bolts won't centre the nuts before welding.

Will do thanks. I'm thinking of just doing it in situ (not the engine bolted in, just the mounts).
Attach mounts to subframe, tack nuts in place then remove from subframe and finish the job.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 3:09 pm 
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998cc
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Be careful...

You can (used to be able??) to buy engine mounts with nuts attached. These were a PITA to use as the bolts have to perfectly placed and aligned to start in the nut. Its hard enough just getting the bolts through the holes....

And, it installs the bolt upside down.. so, if it comes loose it will probably fall out ... Hopefully the other three will stay in place keeping the engine attached..

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 3:48 pm 
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The mounts with `nuts' swaged in them are rubbish- the threads are too soft and they strip easy.
I have used mounts with hex nuts tacked in them since the 60s, I have never had a bolt come out. Spring washer is plenty to hold it.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 3:53 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Western Sydney
I welded Flanged Nuts to my engine mounts.
Poke a screwdriver through to line it up and then screw in the bolt with a spring washer. Easy as.

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