Went for my Blue Slip today with unsuccessful result.
1. How do I replace the left side steering rack bush. Can the rack be removed without the engine coming out or the bush replaced in situ.
2. The engine weeps oil from various places. They suggested Penrite LTF so that it won't leak while it's being inspected. Should this do the job for the inspection.

There are a few other minor items that I can do but the rack is my biggest concern.

Phil

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Nothing will prevent the leaks, maybe just slow them down.

Is it the rear seals or the timing gear as well?

Yes, you can remove the rack from the car in situ. You need to remove the rear subframe lower (4) and upper (4) bolts to allow the rear of the subframe to lower it in a controlled manner under its own weight. This will allow enough room to pull the rack out, but also allow you the best chance of replacing the U bolts at the end. These can be a little challenging.

I am unsure if the steering bush can be replaced in-situ. I would remove the rack to rebuild the unit, but others may know a method.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I have heard of people getting the rack bush out in situ, they must be very patient people (or have a vast vocabulary of naughty words)!

I find the best way to remove the whole bush is completely strip the rack, then drive a 1" dia steel bar through it from the driver's side.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There are traces of oil all over the bottom of the gearbox as I suspect it leaks from a few places.
I'm more then happy to put some heavy oil in to get the blue slip and then change it.
I might even stop sown the road and wipe it clean just before I get there. They are only a 2 k drive away so I doubt it will leak much.
I did discuss that they leaked in the showroom and he sort of agreed. I got the hint that as long as it didn't drip during the inspection it should be OK.

Thanks for the hints on the rack. Probably easier to remove and be done with it. Is it a simple pull the old bush out and push the new one in or does it have to be reamed to size.

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

You wouldn't be the first to spotlessly degrease the engine and then wipe the sump down just prior to the roadworthy.

Seals are n't all that god-awful though. You just need to resolve to do do them starting early one sunny Saturday morning.




No reaming required

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

CRC Brakleen is what I used to use to clean oil leaks before taking trucks over the pits.

Clean the motor so it is spotless and when you are around the corner from the inspection give any leaks a squirt with the CRC Brakleen and then wipe with a clean rag. Any residue will evaporate away leaving it clean and dry.

Original bush was was felt. New ones are polyurethane with a hex bore.

If you strip the rack to replace the bush, you should check all the following:
Condition of pinion bearings
Shimming of pinion bearings
Replace the 2x wave/belleville washers/disc springs (same things)
Adjust preload on above washers as per manual
Check & adjust inner tierod joints, replace with s/h if worn (are NLA new)
Fit new pinion seal and rack boots
lubricate with 200mL of 85/140 gear oil.

Might be easier to see TheMiniMan or John Smidt for an exchange rack...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Then, with a mate to assist, drain sump, mate puts oil container in his car, then push car around block close to testing station, then start engine move to test point, switch off!! Do test, then start and move out of sight, Fill sump, drive off...

Who me??? No way!! I will deny it vehemently!! Never happened!

PS think it was Beverly Hills...where it never happened!

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"Show me the Mini!"

My brother says that the best ever was when the inspector came out of the pit with a drop of oil running down his forehead and said, "It looks pretty good for an old jigger and surprisingly no oil leaks!"
My brother took the paperwork and buggered off before old mate wiped the 'sweat' from his brow.

Before you allow the subframe to lower itself down to get at the steering rack, you'll also need to undo the brake pipe that goes to the front subframe from the union below the master cylinders and undo the 2 bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder to the bell housing. Maybe also undo the speedo cable, depending on how much movement you need, and check the clearance under your carby to make sure it doesn't hit the bulkhead.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

There is a spray can called Leak Seal. Comes in clear and black and about $15 from Bunnings. I used a can to seal up a leaking water tank whilst it was leaking. I haven't tried it on an oil leak yet.
http://www.bunnings.com.au/rust-oleum-l ... t_p4750141

And then hope the inspectors dont pull you over for a random inspection when out on the road

They are always going to ping you for something the side of the road anyway. It might as well be a small oil leak.
So you just fix the leak using the same system and keep the cycle going.

I have a mate who is from Northern Ireland where they have a similar system and he says he used to pull over around the corner from the testing centre and tip petrol over the engine to clean it. This comes with a risk and is not really an environmentally friendly option.

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Justin

Ha! I'm beginning to like our system afterall! Here you can get failed for an empty washer bottle, busted rear number plate light, chipped windscreen...but dripping mini engine? No problem, that's "normal".

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http://www.mini-hb.co.nz